Selling this card because I recently upgraded. It works flawlessly, has only been used for gaming with an undervolt, and is from a smoke/pet free household. Has stayed very cool due to the beefy cooler. It will come in the original packaging.
It has around 1-2 years left on the warranty, haven't double checked the exact date recently but can do so for any buyers.
I'll say 410$ shipped based off previous sales, but I am open to offers.
Timestamps

So LoZ: TotK is going to have DLC. And going off of how DLC was in BotW, I cannot help but wonder what new equipment items we may see added to the roster for TotK's gear in the form of new weapons, bows, shields, and armor that may be bundled into any of the DLC packs coming around.
So I cannot help but theorize and predict that we may get any of the following -
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ARMOR SETS -

• Skyloftian Attire - Considering the fact we may get a DLC that adds more islands, I think it would be fitting to allow for Link to acquire clothing and a new hairstyle option as rewards; replicating Link's appearance from the opening act of Skyward Sword.
• Ordonian Shepherd - Sticking to the idea of having Link in TotK replicate the look of what we once wore in the opening act of a previous game, I think it would be fitting to allow us to acquire the outfit worn by Link in the opening act of Twilight Princess. Especially since it will expose Link's right arm that is now adorned with Zonai accessories.
• Zora Armor of Twilight - As an alternative outfit choice for the Zora Armor you can already acquire in-game, the Zora Armor of Twilight Princess would be an addition to simply allow you to replicate Link's appearance in Twilight Princess.
• Magic Armor - The Magic Armor from Twilight Princess could be added to the game. Though most likely it would simply be an alternative outfit style while replicating the same effect as the Mystic Armor, I personally believe it could be recontextualized as a suit of armor worn by King Rhoam Bosphoramus Hyrule during his younger years as a mere prince of the realm before his time to reign.
• Hero's Shade Armor - Continuing the trend of Twilight Princess inspired attire, I believe that the armor worn by the late Hero of Time in his final days would make for a nice set of armor to replicate the effects of the Barbarian Armor set. To make it interesting, I would personally add a visual flair to the armor by having Link's flesh look normal by day; but when night falls, his exposed flesh becomes semi-translucent, revealling his bones beneath with a single eye-socket glowing red to fully pull off the Hero's Shade look.
• Dark Mage's Robes - Moving to more toon aesthetics, I believe that it would be interesting to provide Link with the ability to mimic Vaati's appearance from The Minish Cap. What with BotW/TotK being more cell-shaded, it would be rather fitting to allow for us to see Vaati's likeness in more graphical detail. Plus as a bonus I think it should receive the gloom-resistant effect.
• Royal Engineer Uniform - Similarly, I think it would be fitting to have the outfit worn by Link in Spirit Tracks to be available in TotK as a collectible set. If I were to apply a bonus attribute to the set, it would be Energy Cell Efficiency; thus wearing the full set would allow you to have a 20% less drain on your Energy Cells when using Zonai Devices.
• Cap/Tunic/Trousers of the Warrior - Honestly, I was surprised that this set was not available in the base game; seeing as the outfit was available in Hyrule Warriors: Age of Calamity. But I can totally see Nintendo adding it in as a new collectible set to acquire while scrounging through The Depths.
• Bunny Hood - Tired of eating Rushroom Skewers and Speed Potions? Well, wearing the Bunny Hood will provide you with the same effect; allowing you to jog and run faster; though climbing speed is still normal.
• Hawkeye Mask - Some Bows, such as the Gerudo Bow, will zoom in whenever you take aim. If Nintendo were to add this mask as a DLC item, this would be how to replicate that effect for all bows in the game.
• Pegasus Boots - No, I don't think a speed boost would be proper to apply to these boots. Instead, I would have it be so that wearing the boots has stamina drain reduced by 20% while sprinting. Combined with the Bunny Hood, you can most certainly travel fast and far on foot.
• Iron Boots - Tired of being knocked around by heavy attacks from large enemies? Don't want Horriblins with bouncy mushroom sticks to make you launch across the cave? Well, find and equip the iron boots to make you move around a little slower but also never be launched by a heavy attack. Just be ready to take the hit.
• Travelling Swordsman - Though most Super Smash Bros Ultimate players don't like the Mii BrawleGunneSwordfighter characters, we can all admit that the default outfit for Mii Swordfighter is actually pretty well made. I could easily see Nintendo add it in as a reference set of shirt and pants; to be paired with the Travelers weapons arrangement.

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WEAPONS -

• Wooden Sword - I think as a fun silent addition, Nintendo should add the Wooden Sword from Twilight Princess as an item. An uncommon drop from the Meantree enemies, so instead of them dropping an effectively useless tree-branch; they drop a more sturdy wooden sword to possibly make use of.
• Ordon Sword - The sword that the Hero of Twilight wielded during his adventure's earliest miles. A fitting piece to help fully replicate the look of Link from the Twilight Princess game when paired with the Cap, Tunic, and Trousers of Twilight.
• Sword of the Knave - At the start of Hyrule Warriors, Link was but a young Knave on his way to be a proper Knight. So it would be fitting to rename the Knight's Sword as such. However in the hands of someone like Link, this blade's power would surpass the likes of a Knight's Sword from BotW/TotK.
• Blade of the Shade - Should the Hero's Shade armor items be added to the game, it would only be fitting to include the Hero's Shade sword to help complete the look.
• Gilded Sword - The fully upgraded Kokiri Sword version 4.0! I think it would be fitting to have to acquire this sword in the Lost Woods, implying that the Hero of Time had returned the blade to the Lost Woods after his adventure in Termina.
• Great Fairy's Claymore - Perhaps they might add in a quest for Link to perform for each of the Great Fairies, allowing you to be rewarded with the gift of the Great Fairy's Claymore? That or simply make us find it in the overworld.
• Kholint Sword - Seeing as Toy Link has been given some representation as a headpiece you can acquire, I think it would only be fitting to allow for you to obtain the ultimate sword from Link's Awakening as an item you can acquire.
• Blade of Hurricanes - The sword that the Hero of Winds used when not in possession of the Master Sword. What makes this blade unique? Well, I propose that if you were to charge up your spin-attack to the third level of power buildup; Link will then unleash a Hurricane Spin Attack! Great for when you are surrounded by enemies or just farming for items that you can harvest by cutting down grass in a field.
• White Sword - Though it has rarely made an appearance, I believe the addition of the White Sword would be fitting. Fun fact, if you attach a star fragment to an item; you will launch beams of light into the distance. So if the White Sword were to be added to the game, I think it would be best to have it simply not be a weapon you can throw away. Make it akin to the Master Sword where attempting to toss the sword will instead send out a beam. However in the White Sword's case, it will cast a triad of light sources into the distance. A good tool for when in the depths and trying to conserve Brightbulbs.
• Magical Sword - Like the White Sword, this sword should also be unable to be thrown. Instead, attempting to throw the sword should unleash an elemental attack. But with the caveat of it being a random type of element. Are we casting flames, lightning, or ice against our opponent?
• Phantom Sword - I think the addition of the Phantom Sword would be a nice addition to the game's roster of legendary weapons. But how to make it unique? Well it could be complicated to code, but I think that if Link were to try to toss the blade while at full health; it should launch a beam of light upon the enemy. Whatever enemy gets hit by the beam of light will replicate the Time Stop + ability from BotW so the enemy is frozen for a free hit or two.
• Lokomo Sword - The addition of the Lokomo Sword would make for a nice item to include in the weapons roster. But how to make it unique? Simple. If Link attempts to use the Fusion ability with this weapon and attempts to attach Zonai Charges or even Large Zonai Charges, the blade will be mended of damage. Thus the sword can be healed without the need of an Octorok.
• Four Sword - Now I know what you are thinking and NO. This sword will not make three other companion Links running around as AI companions. We already have our Vows with the Sages providing that. Instead I offer an alternative. Imagine a visual effect like what happens in Super Mario Galaxy when you pick up an Invincibility power up. Whenever you wield the Four Sword, you will instead have three shadows following very closely behind you; one red, one blue, and one purple. Whenever you swing the Four Sword, these copies follow your every motion and if the hit lands; they deal the same damage as you. So while the Four Sword would be 15 damage power, it is actually most likely 15x4 if all three of these copy Link's follow your motion and land their hits; meaning that if all 4 hits land you just dealt 60 damage with one button press. However, the enemy could fall out of range due to the slight knockback that weapons feature in the game; so you may end up missing your copy-cat hits. At least this is how I would have the Four Sword act in the game.
• Dominion Mace - Though this is more of a joke item. I figure that after eons, the Dominion Rod of Twilight Princess would be both depleted of power and all history regarding the relic has been lost to those who do not peruse the Royal Library. As a result, Link finds the Dominion Rod and deems it to be a well-made mace.
• Flameblade
• Flamespear
• Great Flameblade
• Frostblade
• Frostspear
• Great Frostblade
• Thunderblade
• Thunderspear
• Great Thunderblade
  • So yes, these weapons were sadly removed as BotW transitioned into TotK. And yes, you can replicate them by way of elemental Lizalfos Horns. HOWEVER; I think there is a missed opporitunity here. Zonai attachments to Zoanite weapons receive a bonus to their attack power. I believe that these elemental weapons should return to the game and if affixed with the proper attachment (Flameblade receives Flame Lizalfos Horn attachment for example), it should have a similar enhancing effect to both the weapon's damage and elemental output.

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BOWS -

• Sacred Bow - The final upgraded version of Skyward Sword Link's bow. I suspect that we will most likely see a DLC give us more islands in the sky to explore. So it would be fitting to be able to find this bow nested in a chest up high in the skies above Hyrule.
• Legendary Crossbow - It would be rather unique to have the ability to use Link's Crossbow from Link's Crossbow Training as a weapon. I personally would have it replicate the Duplex Bow to shoot two arrows for the price of one.

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SHIELDS -

• Deku Shield - If any shield should be added in a DLC as a quest reward, it should be the iconic Kokiri Shield from Ocarina of Time. Simply have it be a reward given by the Deku Tree for Link running an errand for him, a humble and sentimental reward.
• Ordon Shield - To go with the Ordon Sword, I think that the Ordon Shield should also be added to the game as a legacy item; thus allowing us to replicate the Hero of Twilight look even further.
• Mirror Shield - Though you can replicate this shield's effect thanks to the Zonai Mirrors you can fuse with a shield, it would be nice to have a Mirror Shield from a previous game as a legacy item. Question is, which one? There are like 6 designs we have had in the history of Zelda.
• Engineer's Shield - The shield that Link used in Spirit Tracks at the start of his adventure.
• Shield of Antiquity - Simply put, have it be an alternative version of the Hero's Shield that used to be dropped from the Wind Waker Amiibo. I personally would have it be an item that could be found in a whirlpool cave in the waters of the Necluda Sea added in with a DLC.
• Wooden Shield / Banded Shield / Braced Shield - I honestly find it strange that these weren't added as an homage to Skyward Sword as shields that could be found both in the islands in the sky and as items scattered around fallen island debris. If any DLC shields should be added, I think the Skyward Sword wooden shields would make for a nice addition to the roster; especially since they would level up alongside the player in the save file. So as they progress further in the game, they can find Banded and finally the Braced Shields.
• Iron Shield / Reinforced Shield / Fortified Shield - Ditto but with the Skyward Sword Iron Shield lineup of upgrades. Stronger than the Wooden Shield counterpart but susceptible to lightning.
• Sacred Shield / Divine Shield / Goddess Shield - Ditto. However, unlike with this lineup of shields from Skyward Sword where they mended themselves over time; I think that it would be fitting to have these shields only have a single property from that game carry over to TotK. When the shield is raised against Stal enemies (with the exception of the Stalnox), it will make them cower away from you and keep their distance. An especially useful item to have on hand when roaming around at night or exploring the depths wanting to be undisturbed by the annoying bones.
• Shade's Guard - Again, if Nintendo were to add in the Hero's Shade armor set; it would only be fitting to add in the shield used by the Hero's Shade in Twilight Princess as a bonus to complete the look.
• Shield of the Knave - The default shield from Hyrule Warriors would make for a descent addition. Especially if players are wanting to replicate the Hyrule Warriors' depiction of Link if Nintendo were to add in the outfit as well.
• Shield of Light - If Nintendo were to add in the White Sword as depicted in Hryule Warriors, I think it would be fitting to have it also be included the shield that Link used when making use of that sword. Have the bonus attribute that whenever you raise the shield, it shines light upon whatever is in front of you; allowing you to illuminate the darkness of the Depths and some caves with ease.
• Shield of Magic - Ditto. However, I believe that this shield should have the bonus effect of actually being able to heal itself. Should the player successfully deflect a magic attack with this shield equipped, it will mend some of its damaged health-pool by 10%; allowing you to fix the shield by simply fighting an elemental enemy.

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And there you have it.
Just figured I would share my expectations of what we could see as DLC legacy items coming to Tears of the Kingdom in the coming year and how I would have some of them provide a bonus effect.
Thoughts anyone?

Just returned from a trip to Cozumel wherein me and a buddy did our open water certification (Friday 2 shore dives for skills, Saturday 2 boat dives). We took Sunday off to check out the island. Monday & Tuesday we did 2 tank boat dives. Tuesday night I started to feel a bit achy in my joints and pretty run down. Waking up Wednesday morning feeling even worse, I started to get nervous because we had a flight that day and I knew these may be signs of mild DCS, went to the hospital, did 5 hours in the chamber, stayed over night, 3 more hours the next day.
I really enjoyed the scuba and am 100% planning on doing more, my only concern is that my buddy didn't get DCS, and so I don't really have a clear idea of what I may have done wrong, and how to avoid it in the future. As DCS can be pretty scary, I thought I would share what info I have, and see if some feedback here could give me any clarity.
First, our dive profiles. I am just going from what our dive master told us, as I didn't log them, or have my own computer. I realize not logging them was probably not a great practice, and I think I want to get my own computer so I can have a more accurate picture of the dive profile, then just asking the dive master. Anyway, on Monday our first dive deepest depth was 82 feet (again, no idea if we were at this depth the entire time) and we only made it about 36 minutes as I recall. 2nd dive was shallow (maybe 30 feet) I think we did ~55 minutes. Tuesday another 82 feet ~47 minutes, followed by 55 feet around ~56 minutes. Again, I do not have exact numbers but both days we had 45-60 minute break between dives. Did a 3 minute stop at 20 feet on all dives.
A few things of note about the dives on Tuesday. My buddy and me asked our divemaster Monday what his tank was at after we surfaced and were immediately depress with his answer. As such, Tuesday we really wanted to focus on our breathing. One thing we were both doing (I have been told by several people that this is wrong now) was holding our breath between exhale/inhale. I knew about the risk of ascending and holding breath, but thought if I was maintaining depth that this was a simple way to extend the life of my tank. I need to figure out how to consistently breathe, without hucking down air.
I wouldn't of mentioned/remembered this if it hadn't been a question the doctor asked me, but on the Tuesday dives there were some moments of much higher exertion than one would expect in a drift dive. These all revolved around our dive master spotting something he wanted us to look at, and having to swim against the current to get there, and then continuing effort to stay in place while I try to figure out what he is pointing at.
My current working theory is that dehydration may be the culprit. We were pretty conscious of being hydrated, as we had been told so many times, and we were sweating as much as you might expect two people from NYC to do while in Cozumel. We had an electrolyte drink every morning, and brought one on the boat to have in between dives. However, this day, I think they had forgotten to fill the water cooler on the boat. The previous days I had refilled my electrolyte bottle several times with that water cooler before, between, & after dives.
So far, there are not many discrepancies between me and my friend. Now comes the tequila. My friend doesn't drink. After our dives Monday, we walked around some, and I had a couple drinks. While having said drinks, a tequila monger stopped by and wanted me to sample (then buy) their tequilas. By the time this sampling wrapped up, I had probably done ~4 shots of tequila. Later, with dinner I believe I had 3 more drinks. Being somewhat concerned about this, when I got home that night I did make myself chug a lot of water, but maybe the damage was done?
Anyway, that's my story. Would love to hear some thoughts/feedback from experienced folks that might give me some peace of mind going forward.
edit: Again, I want to get a dive computer so I have more info in the future, but for that 82 foot/46 minute dive. I wanted to clarify, this was a wall dive, which we dropped down from the boat into some sand, then swam over to drop off the wall, also finished swimming back up to the sand, and drifting a bit more. So, this isn't all 46 minutes at 82 feet.
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Instructions of easy chicken biryani recipe:

1. Flush the basmati rice under chilly water until the water runs clear. Absorb the rice water for 30 minutes, then channel.
2. In a huge bowl, combine the chicken pieces with yoghurt, a big part of the cut onions, a big part of the minced garlic, ground ginger, red bean stew powder, turmeric powder, biryani masala powder, and salt. Blend well to ensure the chicken is covered with the marinade. Permit it to marinate for no less than 60 minutes, or short-term in the cooler for better character.

Upgrading from an i7 9700kf. Obviously I need a new platform anyways, a 9900k won’t cut it for much longer anyways. Internet suggests ryzen 7xxx series is a no brainer and way better than their intel counterparts, but is that really the case?
A bit of extra info:
Gpu: RTX 3070 FE
Ram will need to be switched out, as it is ddr4
Cooler will be fine, it’s a dark rock pro 4
some prices in my region:

• R7 7800X3D: €440
  
• R7 7700X: €320
  
• R5 7600X: €240
  
• I5 13400F: €220
  
• I5 13600KF: €310
  
• I7 13700KF: €420
  

I’m guessing the 7700X is the best deal of the bunch, but if a 7600X or 13400F is good enough to handle, say, an rtx 4080 ti (reference performance for my next gpu upgrade, which will probably be a 50 or 60 series nvidia card), I might go for that to save money.
I’m a student on a budget, but still an enthusiast. I don’t mind spending 700-800 on a platform upgrade if it brings more value to the table.
Upgrade kits are also popular in my region. Can anyone tell me if one of these deals is great value? Standalone cpu has preference, since none of them offer a mini itx mb to go with it, and I do have a mini itx chassis, but I’m in the building business so I’ll find a use for an extra motherboard.

• I5-13400F + 16GB ddr4-3200 (I can slot my 16GB in to get 32) + B760 mobo for €430
  
• R7 7700X + 32GB ddr5-5600 + B650 mobo for €640
  
• R5 7600X + 32GB ddr5-5600 + B650 mobo for €520
  
• R7 7800X3D + 32GB ddr5-6000 + B650 mobo for €880 (sounds like a scam to me ngl)
  

Hey guys would like to get it reviewed. I'm especially unsure about cpu/motherboard. Was thinking exchanging to Asus TUF GAMING X670E-PLUS ATX AM5 Motherboard + AMD Ryzen 7 7700X, but not sure if its worth the 200euro difference.
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/p4JZsL
AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core ProcessorNoctua NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU CoolerMSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 MotherboardCorsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 MemorySamsung 980 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State DriveSapphire PULSE Radeon RX 7900 XTX 24 GB Video CardNZXT H7 Flow ATX Mid Tower CaseCorsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

I recently bought a second hand Razer edition of the O11-DYNAMIC (this one: https://lian-li.com/nl/artikel/pc-o11-dynamische-razer-editie/). When inspected the case when I picked it up I missed that the previous owner saw fit to cut a small hole in the PSU cover at the rear of the case. I'm guessing it was to run a small wire through it or something, who knows. Anyway, I've been searching for a replacement panel, but haven't had any luck do far. I've contacted Lian li though their website (the contact us page) and inquired where I could purchase a replacement. Unfortunately, I have yet to receive a reply and it's been almost 2 weeks now. Is there any other way to buy/order a replacement for this panel?

Hey everyone!
Thought I'd post a quick update since my last post detailing the outcomes of a few adjustments I've made over the last two days.
Overall I'm thrilled at the progress I've been able to make reducing internal temperatures, and I've had so much fun researching and tweaking various build configurations!
The adjustments I made were relatively simple, but I wanted to detail my findings in case other are considering similar changes!

Basic Build Details

• NR200P Max (stock AIO and PSU)
• 4080 FE
• 13600K
• 2x Noctua NF-A12s on the bottom panel
• Tempered glass side panel
• No undervolts/overclocks

Fans

I swapped out the stock SickleFlow AIO fans for Noctua NF-A14s, and although these did not make much of a noticeable difference to internal temps (at least without tweaking fan curves), they definitely run quieter (and have alleviated the low ticking noise I used to get at higher RPMs on the stock fans).
I also set three custom fan curves using FanControl:

• GPU curve: Assigned to the GPU fans. I used this to enforce a zero RPM mode for my 4080, and a slightly less aggressive fan curve to reduce noise under load.
• Case fan curve: Assigned to the slim Noctua NF-A12s, based off GPU temps. Conservative, again prioritising low noise. Idling at 20%, and capped at 70% at max, configured to run between 30-45% at typical load.
• Mixed curve: Assigned to the Noctua NF-A14s (AIO fans), based off both CPU and GPU temps (the higher temperature of the two dictating fan behaviour). Conservative, again prioritising low noise. Idling at 20%, and capped at 70%, configured to run between 30-40% at typical load. +10% offset applied to the NF-A14s after further testing, as it seemed capable of running a tad faster with virtually no noticeable noise difference.

Contact Frame

I also swapped out the stock ILM for a Thermalright contact frame, which immediately improved my CPU temps. Just prior to installing the contact frame, my 13600K peaked out at a package temp of 99 after 10mins of Cinebench R23.
I let the system cool down a bit, installed the contact frame, and ran the same test again - and this time the CPU package temp peaked at 90 after 10mins, which I was very happy with.
This was probably single biggest change I was able to make to internal temperatures.

Airflow

I also experimented with top intake/bottom exhaust, double exhaust, and top exhaust/bottom intake.
I found that the top exhaust/bottom intake configuration was the best for GPU temps when using the tempered glass panel, and the increase in CPU temps was minimal compared to the double exhaust configuration.
This configuration paired with my custom fan curves dropped my average GPU temps under gaming load around 5-8 degrees compared to the double exhaust configuration, depending on the game.
Top intake/bottom exhaust yielded worse temps for both the CPU and the GPU compared to the top exhaust/bottom intake configuration.

Cable Management

I spent a while tightening up the cables around the motherboard/PSU and behind the GPU, which (anecdotally, admittedly) seems to have made around a 2-3 degree impact to my GPU temps.
Although this may be somewhat of a placebo effect, I'm thinking there was a chance that my previous mess of cables may have obstructed airflow inside the case, and tidying this up has allowed me to cool down the GPU more efficiently. Even if this wasn't the case, it's definitely a damn sight better to look at now!

Temps Under Gaming Load

Cyberpunk running at 4K with DLSS and Path Tracing RT used to run the GPU up to 75-77, and the CPU up to 73-75. It now runs at around 61-65 degrees on both the CPU and the GPU - much cooler than previously and significantly quieter! The PC is on my desk about 1.5ft away from me, and I can only hear it if I pause the game and listen out for noise in the silence.
Horizon Zero Dawn and God of War (running at 4K Native and maxed settings) hit at a similar low to mid 60s for both the GPU and CPU.
Spider-Man: Miles Morales at 4K with RT and DLSS now runs at 58-62 GPU and 60-65 CPU.
Overwatch 2 at 4K and maxed settings hits 48-51 GPU and 57-60 CPU, and runs dead silent.

Closing Thoughts

Overall I'm very happy with the above - I was able to drop temps significantly compared to my previous post, and configure a much quieter system at the same time.
I'm currently researching undervolting for both the 13600K and the 4080 - though for now I'm happy enough with my current load temps that I won't be rushing into this any time soon.
In the meantime, I'd be very happy to answer any questions anyone might have, and would also appreciate any further thoughts and advice from the community regarding the aforementioned adjustments.
Thank you for reading, and to the SFFPC community, thank you for all the guidance you've provided over the last months as I researched, assembled, and tweaked my first PC build!

I am currently building a pc and am wondering if these parts will fit into this case. If they don’t can you guys recommend another case or pc parts? Thanks in advance! Also do I need to purchase any extra fans with this case? PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor	$429.98 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler	Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler	$60.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard	MSI PRO B650M-A WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard	$179.95 @ Amazon
Memory	G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory	$124.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$109.99 @ Newegg
Video Card	XFX Speedster MERC 319 Radeon RX 6950 XT 16 GB Video Card	$619.99 @ Amazon
Case	Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case	$94.99 @ B&H
Power Supply	Corsair RM750e (2023) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply	$99.99 @ Best Buy
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$1720.78
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-05-30 07:50 EDT-0400

The aluminum casing of ms msi gs65 9SD literally melted from where i normally put my hand, probably because of my sweat (i live in a place where its 30-40C° in summer (also intensive use for 3 years.). Also my pc overheats a ton (95 while gaming, but with undervolting around 85-90) so that's definitely a factor. So my 2 alternatives were either getting a new front case for it (not that expensive), or a new external keyboard(equally as expensive). And i have decided to get a keyboard. for that, i found Steelseries Apex 3 TKL . this was after not so extensive amazon reserach but since comments said that its paint is not wearing off and its not THAT loud, i am pretty much set on it.
Now the real question wanted to as was about the coolers. I have seen people suggest stuff around 60-80$ but thats out of budget for me. i have looked around and found 2 KLIM 30$ coolers. "Klim airflow"and "Klim Wind". Which one might work better on my laptop? Sorry for formatting issues im writing this on my phone.

It appears as though my psu has blown up unexpectedly. It just so happens that I was looking to upgrade pretty soon. looking for some input on my new build. I already have a decent case and some fans, just replacing the vitals. Case is : Phanteks Eclipse P360A. Thank you in advance!
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CPU
Intel Core i7-11700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $276.10
CPU Cooler
Noctua NH-U12A chromax.black 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler $129.94
Motherboard
Asus TUF Gaming Z590-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard $144.99
Memory
Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory $69.98
Storage
Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive $91.44
Video Card
Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8 GB Video Card $384.99
Power Supply
Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $178.98

Hi I would like to know with those that has the Ryzen 7700 what are your usual temps at idle and gaming. I live at the equator so the ambient tempreture is already pretty high.
I'm using a negative pressure setup with 6 exhaust (including 360 aio) and 3 intake Mine seems to idle at 49°C - 60 °C when I'm just using it for general use like browsing at 60% fan speed. During gaming about 75°C - 80°C or higher. Wondering if these tempretures are fine or should be cooler? And at what temps should I start worrying?
Additionally, recently there was 1 time the cpu was only running below 10% but went up to 100°C. I just quickly restart the pc and it went back to normal. Wondering if this is an issue with the cpu or motherboard? I did hear about the 7000 series having some issue with the motherboard, so are there those with the same cpu having this issue and did you guys update the bios?
Just to note I'm still pretty new to pc so any kind of advice to lower the temps would be appreciated. I did fiddle with fan graph and looked into ryzen master but I don't understand a single thing from it other than max voltage and tempreture in it.

My service is now installed, and I thought I'd post an update with my experience for others considering upgrading to multi-gig service.
I bought a MikroTik CCR2004-16G-2S+ router, an S+RJ10 module, an SFP+ DAC cable, and attached it to my existing MikroTik CRS312 switch.
I do not recommend this setup if you are not technically inclined. If you don't know what DHCP, NAT, stateful vs stateless firewalls, or bridges are, pick up something else.

Pros:

• Rackmount design
• All things are possible
• Excellent documentation
• NAT and stateful firewall at full 10 gig duplex performance
• No cloud dependencies
• No remote telemetry spying on you

Cons:

• No out-of-the-box configuration
• Uses more standard network terminology, which if you are used to customer routers may be unfamiliar
• Noisy fan
• Weird and proprietary scripting/shell language (although, all the similarly priced alternatives seem to be missing scripting entirely...)

The router does not come with any configuration out of the box, so you have to build it up basically from scratch. Before actually ordering my service upgrade, I set up a local NAT behind my existing router so I could benchmark it. A basic NAT+stateful firewall was able to perform at full duplex 9.4gbps through the SFP+ ports at under iperf, so I was happy with that.
Once I actually had the tech come and upgrade my service, I ran into a few issues. First, I was only getting 4gbps from speedtest.net - solved by running speedtest on the CLI.
The next issue was fan noise - the MikroTik module was toasty, and the fans were running pretty much full speed trying to keep it cool. After researching online I bought a WiiTek module off amazon, which ran about 5 degrees cooler even with the fans at lower speed. But your mileage may vary - a relevant detail of my setup is that my ONT was 50-60 feet of cat6a cable away from the router. I pulled some fiber along that route instead, and used a short 1 foot cat6 cable to connect the ONT to the router, and temps dropped further. The fans are still audible but no longer loud. I'm going to replace them with noctua A4x20 FLX and it'll be really silent. This router also comes in a passively cooled variant with a giant heatsink and slower clocks, which is probably what I should've bought :-)
Overall I am quite pleased with the Ziply service and my router choice. While the interface was intimidating at first and some customization was required, I was always able to google and find documentation and instructions.
And here at the end is a little guide that could be useful as actual instructions if you buy one of these routers, or to help you decide if this sort of configuration is within your comfort level. All of this is doable via the GUI, which is basically 1:1 with the command line, but I didn't feel like adding a bunch of screenshots to this post.
Configure SFP+ ports.

/interface ethernet set [ find default-name=sfp-sfpplus1 ] comment="WAN SFP1" set [ find default-name=sfp-sfpplus2 ] comment="LAN SFP2" 

Not required, but I chose to use interface lists so I could reassign stuff easily later if I wanted to.

/interface list add name=WAN add name=LAN /interface list member add interface=sfp-sfpplus1 list=WAN add interface=sfp-sfpplus2 list=LAN 

Create a pool to assign IPv4 addresses from:

/ip pool add comment="10/24 " name=dhcp ranges=10.0.0.2-10.0.0.254 

Add a DHCP server to the LAN port:

/ip dhcp-server add address-pool=dhcp interface=sfp-sfpplus2 lease-time=10h name=dhcp1 /ip address add address=10.0.0.1/24 interface=sfp-sfpplus2 network=10.0.0.0 /ip dhcp-server network add address=10.0.0.0/24 dns-server=10.0.0.1 gateway=10.0.0.1 netmask=24 

Set up DNS:

/ip dns set allow-remote-requests=yes cache-size=8192KiB max-concurrent-queries=1000 max-concurrent-tcp-sessions=50 

IPv4 NAT:

/ip firewall filter add action=fasttrack-connection chain=forward comment="Fastrack established/related" connection-state=established,related hw-offload=yes add action=accept chain=forward comment="Accept established/related" connection-state=established,related /ip firewall nat add action=masquerade chain=srcnat comment="IPv4 WAN" out-interface-list=WAN 

Example port forwarding configuration for games, servers, etc :

/ip firewall nat add action=dst-nat chain=dstnat comment="HTTP server" dst-port=80,443 in-interface-list=WAN protocol=tcp to-addresses=10.0.0.123 

Now we're going to get connected to the internet, but we want to be safe first, which means a firewall to block WAN connections to the router.

/ip firewall filter add action=accept chain=input comment="Accept traffic from LAN to router" in-interface-list=!WAN add action=accept chain=input comment="Accept ICMP" protocol=icmp add action=accept chain=input comment="Allow established incoming traffic" connection-state=established,related in-interface-list=WAN add action=drop chain=input comment="Drop incoming traffic to router" in-interface-list=WAN 

This configuration will drop incoming connections to the router unless they originate from the LAN interface list.
Now that our NAT and firewalls are set up, let’s connect to the internet! (ziply does not yet support ipv6 unless you get the 10g package)

/ipv6 settings set disable-ipv6=yes /ip dhcp-client add interface=sfp-sfpplus1 

After all this, you basically have the default configuration a customer router ships with - DHCP, NAT, default-deny stateful firewall, local DNS cache. I followed up with static DHCP leases, local NTP server, ddns update scripts - maybe in the future I’ll install some docker containers.

Are there any tips for building in an ITX case? My friend asked me to build an ITX gaming pc for his birthday. His goal is to play with over 60 FPS at 1080p. He also allowed me to buy used parts just to save some money. Parts are as follows:
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Fm6xnt)
TypeItemPrice
:----:----:----
**CPU** [AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9nm323/amd-ryzen-5-3600-36-thz-6-core-processor-100-100000031box) $75.01
**CPU Cooler** [ID-COOLING SE-214-XT 68.2 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zr8bt6/id-cooling-se-214-xt-682-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-214-xt-argb) $17.85
**Motherboard** [ASRock A520M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zBn8TW/asrock-a520m-itxac-mini-itx-am4-motherboard-a520m-itxac) $90.91
**Memory** [TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/7Wytt6/team-t-force-delta-rgb-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-cl18-memory-tf3d416g3600hc18jdc01) $46.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** [Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TwWfrH/samsung-970-evo-plus-500-gb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s500bam) $27.59
**Video Card** [PowerColor Fighter Radeon RX 6600 XT 8 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nyH7YJ/powercolor-radeon-rx-6600-xt-8-gb-fighter-video-card-6600xt-8gbd6-3dh) $180.00
**Case** [MagniumGear Neo Mini V2 Mini ITX Desktop Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/D3RgXL/metallic-gear-neo-mini-v2-mini-itx-desktop-case-mg-ne210_bk02) $34.99 @ Newegg
**Power Supply** [Enermax Revolution D.F. 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/n34BD3/enermax-revolution-df-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-erf650awt) $79.99
**Operating System** [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxmicrosoft-windows-10-home-oem-dvd-64-bit-kw9-00140) $17.40
*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts*
Total (before mail-in rebates) $590.73
Mail-in rebates -$20.00
**Total** **$570.73**

Looking at building a new PC. Wanted suggestions on what I came up with so far. Is there anything I should change?
I want to build a PC that can comfortably run games in 4K at a high FPS without overheating (obviously). I don't do any graphic design or content creation so it would be a pure gaming PC.
Note: I already have a monitor & storage so that is not needed :)
https://preview.redd.it/w2fixaukvw2b1.png?width=2000&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3114511cc08b37470bf5e514cc55d1567cdf387

Bangor-area resident here, living through the Browntail Apocalypse for a third year in a row wondering if anybody has heard of some sort of way to attract and kill the caterpillars? I am in a losing war at my Elm covered property with trees surrounding my house. No stacks of cash to hire an arborist or to treat the trees with some sort of elitist chemical compound. I get the rash REALLY bad and I just want to play outside again! Really needing some yankee ingenuity here! I have no patience to wait for them to become moths so, let’s focus on the caterpillar. How do I attract them to kill them? I know the University of Maine was experimenting with pheromones for attracting and killing when they become moths but I want to try eradicating them sooner than that. Can you help? Any ideas? Here’s a few things I’ve noticed: 1) they are attracted to metal things around the outside of my house (e.g. propane tanks, the grill, a metal bucket, a ladder) 2) I have found their nests not only at the tops of my 60 foot elm trees but also in dry leaves on the ground at the base of small shrubby plants, 3) they like hardwood and fruit trees, 4) they die when I spray them with a mix of dish soap and water, 5) they are slower in the cooler morning before the sun comes out and more active after the sun’s been up and the temperatures warm up, 6) I can’t live like this anymore. Please help!

Hello fellow hardware swappers. I am moving and decided to clean out my gaming/tech room and have a bunch of stuff to get rid of. Willing to bundle stuff together for a discount, just DM me. I will send PayPal goods and service invoices for everything. The prices include shipping via UPS Ground with tracking. I might ship some items with a signature required depending on the cost, I will inform you beforehand.
Any questions feel free to DM me.

Item	Description	Price	Timestamp
Intel i9-9900k	Never overclocked, used in my old gaming PC. It will be shipped in the original box.	$175.00 Sold to u/in7ac7 for asking price.	Physical Timestamp
AMD Ryzen 5 5600X + Gigabyte B550I Aorus Pro AX + Scythe Big Shuriken 3 Rev.B CPU Air Cooler + Corsair 32GB DDR4 3200 + Samsung M.2 SSD 960 EVO 500GB	In very good condition, barely used. I do not want to part this out, hence the good price. I included a HWINFO timestamp. I will clean and reformat drive before shipping, windows is not included.	$325.00 Sold to u/Few-Independence6637 for asking price.	HWINFO + Physical Timestamp
EK Quantum Velocity2 LGA 1700 - Satin	Never used, but slightly scuffed. Ships in nickel + plexi box but is the Satin Titanium finish. Only includes block + backplate.	$95.00	Physical Timestamp
RTX 2080 Ti Founders	Was water cooled but put it back on air after moving it to my HTPC. Never mined on, in good shape. You can find the HWINFO Timestamp under the AMD Ryzen build above.	$250.00 Sold to u/in7ac7 for asking price.	Physical Timestamp
Nintendo Switch V1	Bought on launch comes with red and blue joycons, dock, charger, joycon charging dock, & joycon wrist straps. Screen is lightly scuffed from normal use.	$120.00 sold to u/B4rr0th for asking price.	Physical Timestamp
Shure SM7B	Barley used, includes original box + all accessories. I will also throw in a WORLDS BEST CABLES xlr cable, made with Mogami 2549 (Black) wire and Neutrik NC3MXX-B XLR connectors.	$300.00 sold to u/InfamousPBJ for $240.00.	Physical Timestamp
Elgato Wave XLR	Used with the SM7B for about 6 months. Works great but does not include the USB C cable. It is just the unit.	$85.00 sold to u/InfamousPBJ for $60.00.	Physical Timestamp
PS4 Pro	Just the standard PS4 Pro 1TB, not a special edition. Includes one controller, micro-USB for controller to PS4 and power cable for console.	$185.00	Physical Timestamp
Bitspower Assorted Fittings	I have a box of Bitspower fittings, black ones are for soft tubing and silver for hard tubing. There is around $800-$900 worth of fittings in this box. If you have any questions DM me. Really don't have time to count each fitting etc., hence the price.	$150.00	Physical Timestamp
EVGA 1000T2 + High end Custom cables from Titan Rig	The PSU was used for about a year. Good condition. Comes with 24 pin motherboard, 3x 8-pin GPU, 2x 8-pin CPU cables.	$150.00	Physical Timestamp
Logitech G915 TKL	Used for about a year, just cleaned it, does not come with a USB cable to charge it, I tried to find a spare one but no luck. It does have the dongle though. EDIT: Forgot to mention it has Clicky Switches/blue.	$100.00	Physical Timestamp
2018 Razer Blade Advanced	Following Specs: i7 - 8750H, GTX 1070 Max-Q, 16GB DDR4 Ram, 512GB M.2 SSD. The Screen is in great condition no scratches or dead pixels. There are some minor scuffs that I took a picture of. Battery health is very good at 92%. CPU and Battery Timestamp included. The plastic cover for the LCD ribbon cable is slightly damaged. Seems to be a common issue, however I have not had a single issue, it works perfectly fine. I can't put two links in one field so I will put the Battery Health Timestamp here. Includes the original charger.	$550.00	CPU/HWINFO Timestamp

​

Hey everyone!
Thought I'd post a quick update since my last post detailing the outcomes of a few adjustments I've made over the last two days.
Overall I'm thrilled at the progress I've been able to make reducing internal temperatures, and I've had so much fun researching and tweaking various build configurations!
The adjustments I made were relatively simple, but I wanted to detail my findings in case other are considering similar changes!

Basic Build Details

• NR200P Max (stock AIO and PSU)
• 4080 FE
• 13600K
• 2x Noctua NF-A12s on the bottom panel
• Tempered glass side panel
• No undervolts/overclocks

Fans

I swapped out the stock SickleFlow AIO fans for Noctua NF-A14s, and although these did not make much of a noticeable difference to internal temps (at least without tweaking fan curves), they definitely run quieter (and have alleviated the low ticking noise I used to get at higher RPMs on the stock fans).
I also set three custom fan curves using FanControl:

• GPU curve: Assigned to the GPU fans. I used this to enforce a zero RPM mode for my 4080, and a slightly less aggressive fan curve to reduce noise under load.
• Case fan curve: Assigned to the slim Noctua NF-A12s, based off GPU temps. Conservative, again prioritising low noise. Idling at 20%, and capped at 70% at max, configured to run between 30-45% at typical load.
• Mixed curve: Assigned to the Noctua NF-A14s (AIO fans), based off both CPU and GPU temps (the higher temperature of the two dictating fan behaviour). Conservative, again prioritising low noise. Idling at 20%, and capped at 70%, configured to run between 30-40% at typical load. +10% offset applied to the NF-A14s after further testing, as it seemed capable of running a tad faster with virtually no noticeable noise difference.

Contact Frame

I also swapped out the stock ILM for a Thermalright contact frame, which immediately improved my CPU temps. Just prior to installing the contact frame, my 13600K peaked out at a package temp of 99 after 10mins of Cinebench R23.
I let the system cool down a bit, installed the contact frame, and ran the same test again - and this time the CPU package temp peaked at 90 after 10mins, which I was very happy with.
This was probably single biggest change I was able to make to internal temperatures.

Airflow

I also experimented with top intake/bottom exhaust, double exhaust, and top exhaust/bottom intake.
I found that the top exhaust/bottom intake configuration was the best for GPU temps when using the tempered glass panel, and the increase in CPU temps was minimal compared to the double exhaust configuration.
This configuration paired with my custom fan curves dropped my average GPU temps under gaming load around 5-8 degrees compared to the double exhaust configuration, depending on the game.
Top intake/bottom exhaust yielded worse temps for both the CPU and the GPU compared to the top exhaust/bottom intake configuration.

Cable Management

I spent a while tightening up the cables around the motherboard/PSU and behind the GPU, which (anecdotally, admittedly) seems to have made around a 2-3 degree impact to my GPU temps.
Although this may be somewhat of a placebo effect, I'm thinking there was a chance that my previous mess of cables may have obstructed airflow inside the case, and tidying this up has allowed me to cool down the GPU more efficiently. Even if this wasn't the case, it's definitely a damn sight better to look at now!

Temps Under Gaming Load

Cyberpunk running at 4K with DLSS and Path Tracing RT used to run the GPU up to 75-77, and the CPU up to 73-75. It now runs at around 61-65 degrees on both the CPU and the GPU - much cooler than previously and significantly quieter! The PC is on my desk about 1.5ft away from me, and I can only hear it if I pause the game and listen out for noise in the silence.
Horizon Zero Dawn and God of War (running at 4K Native and maxed settings) hit at a similar low to mid 60s for both the GPU and CPU.
Spider-Man: Miles Morales at 4K with RT and DLSS now runs at 58-62 GPU and 60-65 CPU.
Overwatch 2 at 4K and maxed settings hits 48-51 GPU and 57-60 CPU, and runs dead silent.

Closing Thoughts

Overall I'm very happy with the above - I was able to drop temps significantly compared to my previous post, and configure a much quieter system at the same time.
I'm currently researching undervolting for both the 13600K and the 4080 - though for now I'm happy enough with my current load temps that I won't be rushing into this any time soon.
In the meantime, I'd be very happy to answer any questions anyone might have, and would also appreciate any further thoughts and advice from the community regarding the aforementioned adjustments.
Thank you for reading, and to the NR200 community, thank you for all the guidance you've provided over the last months as I researched, assembled, and tweaked my first PC build!

So I defrosted my upright freezer last weekend (some 5 year old may have left the door cracked open, meat and berries are all fine :D )
I bought a few bags of ice and 4 lbs or so of dry ice as I do every other year when I defrost.
Used my old igloo white cooler, the one that is about 40” long, my RTIC 65 l (the older style), and a buddies 65-75 l pelican.
It only takes a day to defrost are re freeze the freezer just hadn’t had time to to empty the coolers. Today I emptied them and watered the garden with the water. All received similar amounts of ice and dry ice. Igloo Luke cold water, RTIC cold water that “could” make a good lemonade on a hot day, pelican, there’s still ice and it’s still really cold inside.
Very impressed with the pelican. Not dissatisfied with my RTIC, I would but then on different classes. Pelican is also heavy as crap unloaded.

No Timestamp due to age and flair
Hows it going, unfortunately im letting go of one of the cooler rifles in my collection to save up for more guns lmao
Shooting vids and more pics on request for serious buyers only pls
Not looking for trades at the moment
WE Scar L GBBR - $750 Shipped and feed obo - https://imgur.com/a/XfhWKlr
Internals: - Poseidon 6.05 inner barrel - Maple leaf 60° bucking - shimmed hop up with a piece of paper so that recoil doesnt change hop setting, its hard to turn but it will still adjust - added heat shrink to the bolt catch, locks back on empty 100% of the time - Nozzle has 2 washers inside, currently shoots at about 340 FPS, removing washers will bring it back up to 400+ FPS
Externals: - Airsoft Artisan M-lok front end - 1 in outer barrel extension (no flashhider) - Renegade Scar SC stock - Repro Vortex UH-1 - Repro SF Scout Light w/ 45° offset mount - PTS Magpul MBUS2 Irons - Cracked sight protector - RS Magpul K2 Grip - RS Magpul AFG2 M-lok adapter - Repro AFG2 - Barricade stop not included (covered it in red in the pics)
*batteries on light and sight will be removed for shipping
Extras: - Original stock + hardware - Original rail system + hardware - spare for parts nozzle (did the NPAS mod but doesnt work well, nozzle as a whole works fine but will not adjust FPS) - Spare Recoil rod/spring assembly - Original front sight (no rear sight) - 6 non-leaky mags
HAO MWS 99% Complete BCG - $95 Shipped and Feed - https://imgur.com/a/3mJvcPe
Bought this to see how an Aluminum bolt would feel, is snappy but i prefer my heavy recoil setup. Basically brand new, ran 1 mag through it. It is 99% complete because it requires the 2 screws that hold the nozzle guide in place (see pics), was going to find some at the hardware store but was too lazy.
Also, the Bolt end in the pics is not the one it will come with (thats a GM bolt end). It will come with the original HAO Steel bolt end
GHK AK Nozzles & HPA Adapters and reductors - https://imgur.com/a/HjBdUsc
$30 each Nozzle
ALL EPeS ITEMS SOLD
Finally, got a pair of GHK AK nozzles and EPeS HPA Adapters and Mag reductors (4 of each). 1 nozzle is an OEM nozzles, the other is a 1J nozzle.