On a 2003 Toyota Highlander. The serpentine belt squeals when the car is cold. It stops when the car warms up but starts again when the AC is turned on. Replacing the serpentine belt fixed it for maybe 20 miles then it started again. Is this a bad pulley? Bad AC compressor? Thanks in advance.

So now I have a whole new problem and I'm thinking it is because the job won't done properly, on May 9th, called a guy to come out to replace a capacitor after a storm knocked it out. He thought my compressor didn't sound right so he we t up in the attic and told me my Thermal Expansion Valve was mechanically stuck closed and needed replaced. It took 4 days to get it fixed and everything worked well. Went away for a week for memorial day and got home at 1 am after a long drive. House was hot, but I was expecting that because I set it to 80 before leaving but the thermostat said temp was 83. Checked the vents, airs coming out, but bit cold. Went outside and saw only the blades moving on the unit, no compressor. After a little while the compressor kicked in but started short cycling. So now I've got the AC off and am sitting in the basement writing this waiting for the ac company to open so I can get someone out here. Right now I think he just did the TEV repair wrong and refrigerant leaked out over the course of a few weeks to the point the compressor can't activate. I wanted to get other opinions though because if I can fix it myself tonight, I'd rather do that since I have to be at work in 4 hours and obviously am not going to get any sleep
TLDR: Got home from Vacay, Hvac compressor short cycling, had capacitor and thermal expansion valve replaced less then a month ago, think it's leaking, thoughts?

Putting this TLDR at the top before I layer on 10 kinds of context: I had the compressor of my upstairs AC unit replaced, and now the coil freezes over every time the AC runs for a long period of time. I'm guessing they put too much refrigerant in the system? Or is it too little?
I live in a 1900's 4 bed 2 bath 2100sqft house with two A/C and furnace units. My SO ran the upstairs AC unit at 68 during the summer when it was 100+ outside with Kansas humidity, and because it was running ALL THE TIME, she killed the compressor.
Okay, whatever. Called up the company that installed the thing, and they come out after eons, replace the compressor, and bounce, telling me it should work perfectly, and telling my SO not to crank it to 11 when we have 100+ year old insulation.
This was in September, the compressor failed in early July 2022. So it was kinda cold. I turn the AC on after they leave (They didn't come back into the house afterwards, just told me "ok it works now" and left) and lo and behold, it works. Blows cold, all of that, so I turn it off, and turn the heat back on.
Fast forward to now. It's summer, it's hot. I want my AC to work. I turn it on, and have like an hour of cold air, then it stops blowing. Funny, I can hear the blower motor running when I stand next to the thermostat that's below the return register in the hallway.
I meander up to the attic, and take a look-see. It's dripping water into its little pan. The insulated side of the copper piping is cold, and the blower motor is running. I try to put my peepers on the coil, and no es bueno, can't do it.
So I waddle out to my truck, get my camera on a wand thing (endoscope?) and stick that in a few places until I can see the coil. And, as you probably guessed, it was covered in ice.
I checked the filter, which is juts one of those basically see through cheap pleated white ones, and it was fresh.
Okaayyyy. I waddle back downstairs, turn the A/C unit off, drag the little 5000 BTU window shaker that could out of the closet, set it up, and sit there waiting for the coil to defrost like I didn't just spend ~$400 in labor to have the compressor replaced. (The units are still under warranty.)
Try it again like 5 hours later. Blows cold, then stops. I don't even waste time heading upstairs to check it out, so I just left the AC off.
Other things to note:

• The airflow out of my registers is normal, and strong. My house is 100+ years old, I don't expect polar wind, but it isn't anemic.
• I haven't fucked with it (trust me bro)
• I set it to 72.

That was today. Am I incorrect in assuming there's too much refrigerant in the system? Or is it too little?

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Hello,
I changed the AC compressor (remanufactured) in a 2012 gmc terrain. I had to loosen the subframe to maneuver the compressor out and in. Now the car bounces. Not specifically while accelerating. Not at idle. Not all the time.
I changed all the engine and transmission mounts. It improved the situation, most were detached. It did not totally stop the bouncing.
The low side of the AC is reading 45psi, and the high side is 250psi at 80 degrees ambient temp.
Shocks and struts are original.
I am considering trying a new compressor.
Do you all have any ideas?

Brought my car to a shop and they hit my bumper. Bumper is just dented and scratched bottom left corner. My car AC is blowing cold air but it is making noise when it is on. Should I replace the bumper or car ac compressor? Since it is blowing cold air at the moment. Would keeping my compressor affect my engine? Would it last long or not even break at all? I was told by some friends the noise might be normal and can just last long.

I have a camry hybrid that require nd11, can't find it anywhere, not even the dealer (they told me to bring it to their service). Any advice/tips/alternatives?

Ok so I asked about my wife's car w little while ago and I double checked all fuses, put refrigerant in and made sure the compressor was spinning, everything seems fine but still no cold air. Although in the morning it seems to want to try and give us cold air. But after about a half hour of driving or if we start it late in the afternoon there's no AC whatsoever. Anymore advice would be wonderful thanks everyone

OK dudes, i got a little bit of a background doing mechanic work. i also have most of the tools required to do stuff.
i got a problem with something i don't know a whole hell of a lot about, and i need to find a cost-effective way to fix it. in particular my AC compressor siezed. i turned it off pretty quickly to avoid snapping the belt.
the truck in question is a 2005 Escalade with the LQ9, and rear automatic control. my buddy and i are doing some work on the truck. i've owned it since 2016. i use it as my primary vehicle, and lately it's been getting some love. mainly fixing things and bringing it all back to good working order.
recently, i did some work on the HVAC controls and got the system working again. after that we replaced the tension arm/pulley for the AC belt, and put a fresh belt on. after that the AC system was working. i still gotta figure out what went out in the rear system, it worked for a few days, but i suspect it's going to be a bad rear fan or something.
anyways, the other day i was at work (i'm a courier), and i shut the truck off to pick up a specimen, and when i started it back up the belt squealed. i clicked the AC off and the squealing stopped immediately.
i called a local shop and spoke to their service writer. i told him what happened and he said that he agreed that it sounds like the compressor siezed up. thing is, for the shop to fix the system it'd probably be in the neighborhood of $1200 or so. i told him that i was looking for a way to maybe have them evac the system, and then we replace the parts, and let them recharge it when we're done.
the guy told me they have several customers who've used them like that in the past, and that they'd be happy to do it.
now we get to my question. beyond the compressor, what should i be looking at replacing (i'm guessing the accumulator)?
does anybody have any advice or guides on this job? is it just as simple as replacing the compressor and accumulator, or are there other things i need to look at?
also, does anyone have any advice on what compressor to get?

Good time of day to you all,

 Recently I have had the oddest thing happen to my car. I was dropping off my son and when I returned to my car and put it in reverse my car reversed no problem. When I engaged Drive it just revved the engine. No response from the gear at all. I was able to downshift into 1st and 2nd and the gear caught and I could go, but entering 3rd and then Drive would just get me back to a high RPM rev. Any ideas? I added transmission fluid this evening after running my car for a good ten minutes. I took it for a cruise and the problem persisted. 

Thank you in advance for any advice.

Hey all,
Long story short, while having my truck fixed for a cracked manifold, I also asked the dealer to diagnose my AC - which had been trash since day 1. Upon return, they told me the AC system was empty, which is BS since the air worked when it went in to service. Now it's blowing completely hot and the compressor isn't kicking on when turned on. They wanted $1k to diagnose the AC "leak". I'm familiar with filling the system with YF and dye but with the system completely empty, I assume I should jump the actuator sensor so the compressor kicks on to draw the refrigerant into the system.. anyone know where that sensor is?
On the flip side, can I just fill it from empty and eventually it will create enough pressure to turn on?
(I have a RamCares case open about the AC for the long term. Something doesn't feel right with it working then all of a sudden being completely empty)

I noticed on my 2019 base WRX that when the AC is turned on there is a repetitive clicking coming from the compressor. At the same time that clicking started, now cold air only blows into the cabin if the engine is revving 1.5k +, not idling. Dealership wants ~$2k to replace the entire compressor and serpentine belt, which is ridiculous. Is it likely that this could be the A/C clutch? I'm at ~55k miles so I'm not convinced the entire compressor needs to be replaced.

So I long story short, I had a coworker who replaced a cap on a 40 year old AC today. He accidentally put the run winding to herm and start winding to common on the cap. Put the disco back in and popped the fuse. After correcting the mistake the compressor was shot. Would this immediately kill a compressor in your opinion? Wiring was like this (C to L1) (R to Herm on cap) (S to common on cap aka L2)

I purchased a 2012 explorer last winter and recently realized the AC doesn’t work.
I took it to mechanic #1 and he said there was a leak that he couldn’t fix.
I took it to mechanic #2 and he fixed the initial leak. He handed it back to me and the ac quickly stopped working again. I took it back to him and he said there’s a pinhole leak in the line so he fixed that.
He handed it back to me and it worked for one day but it only worked about 50% of the time and I could hear the compressor spinning loudly. The compressor then crapped out and it totally stopped working.
Today I spent $1,000 replacing the compressor. The loud compressor noise stopped and the AC was working very nicely for the morning.
Then this afternoon it has stopped working again after I just spent $2,000 fixing it. I’m wondering if anyone has a clue what could be wrong. I have a new compressor and no leaks in the lines.
Thanks all!