2012 honda civic no tpms calibration

https://instagram.com/p/Cs4YM80SDRt/
1 year. 1 week. Owned Blastoise for 53 weeks and man… what an awesome experience. Took this car everywhere from Los Angeles (a couple of times), to Portland (countless times), to San Francisco, to Vancouver, BC, to Cascade mountains, to Ocean Shores, to Long Beach and daily driving, totaling 35,329 miles driven.
Was skeptical about electric vehicles, especially battery degeneration but so far, it seems like the battery is still very healthy.
How do I know it’s very healthy? With a small sample from today’s driving, drove 183 miles and the car consumed 38 kWh. With an efficiency of 207 Watt hour (Wh) per mile. Averaging 60 mph and outside temp about 70 F. Blastoise has a 75 kWh battery pack. Math breakdown: With an efficiency of 207 Wh/mi. 1 kWh = 4.831 miles. 75 kWh x 4.831 = 362 miles. On a good day, this car can still travel over 350 miles in one full charge. Now that’s amazing!
In larger sample size. Blastoise traveled 35,329 miles, averaging 239 watt hour per mile and consumed a total of 8,430 kWh. After driving all four season in various weather conditions and driving conditions, in one full charge, Blastoise can go about 313 miles. 45 miles less then an EPA range of 358 miles. Approximately 87% battery life remain. But that number is arbitrary. I expect during warmer months the efficiency will be better and the battery degradation will improve. All in all, this 2022 Tesla Model 3 is absolutely amazing!
Let’s talk about money saved compared to gas. My previous car was a 2010 Honda Civic.
In the past year, IF I drove the Civic 35,000 miles, it would have consumed 1,000 gallons of gasoline. I would have paid roughly $4,300 in gas. *(Civic mpg is about 35mpg, average gas price for the past year I’d say is ROUGHLY $4.30/gal)
Past year, I drove Blastoise about 35,329 miles consumed 8,430 kWh and it would have costed $917 in electricity IF I charged at home the whole time but I didn’t. Did some super charging on road trips, so I estimated $1,100 in total electricity cost counting both at home charging and super charging. *(Blastoise efficiency is 239 Wh, with an average electricity rate of .11 cents and super charging )
Saving me roughly $3,200. Also did no maintenance except adding windshield fluid and occasionally add air to the tires, which is free at Costco, and tire rotations, which is also free at discount tires. All in all savings of over $3,500!!!

https://instagram.com/p/Cs4YM80SDRt/
1 year. 1 week. Owned Blastoise for 53 weeks and man… what an awesome experience. Took this car everywhere from Los Angeles (a couple of times), to Portland (countless times), to San Francisco, to Vancouver, BC, to Cascade mountains, to Ocean Shores, to Long Beach and daily driving, totaling 35,329 miles driven.
Was skeptical about electric vehicles, especially battery degeneration but so far, it seems like the battery is still very healthy.
How do I know it’s very healthy? With a small sample from today’s driving, drove 183 miles and the car consumed 38 kWh. With an efficiency of 207 Watt hour (Wh) per mile. Averaging 60 mph and outside temp about 70 F. Blastoise has a 75 kWh battery pack. Math breakdown: With an efficiency of 207 Wh/mi. 1 kWh = 4.831 miles. 75 kWh x 4.831 = 362 miles. On a good day, this car can still travel over 350 miles in one full charge. Now that’s amazing!
In larger sample size. Blastoise traveled 35,329 miles, averaging 239 watt hour per mile and consumed a total of 8,430 kWh. After driving all four season in various weather conditions and driving conditions, in one full charge, Blastoise can go about 313 miles. 45 miles less then an EPA range of 358 miles. Approximately 87% battery life remain. But that number is arbitrary. I expect during warmer months the efficiency will be better and the battery degradation will improve. All in all, this 2022 Tesla Model 3 is absolutely amazing!
Let’s talk about money saved compared to gas. My previous car was a 2010 Honda Civic.
In the past year, IF I drove the Civic 35,000 miles, it would have consumed 1,000 gallons of gasoline. I would have paid roughly $4,300 in gas. *(Civic mpg is about 35mpg, average gas price for the past year I’d say is ROUGHLY $4.30/gal)
Past year, I drove Blastoise about 35,329 miles consumed 8,430 kWh and it would have costed $917 in electricity IF I charged at home the whole time but I didn’t. Did some super charging on road trips, so I estimated $1,100 in total electricity cost counting both at home charging and super charging. *(Blastoise efficiency is 239 Wh, with an average electricity rate of .11 cents and super charging )
Saving me roughly $3,200. Also did no maintenance except adding windshield fluid and occasionally add air to the tires, which is free at Costco, and tire rotations, which is also free at discount tires. All in all savings of over $3,500!!!

Really, I’d prefer no more than 25k OTD but that has been really tough. I live in LA where taxes are 9.5%, add DMV fees and it’s about $2k on top of the cost of a vehicle meaning I can get something for 26k or less. I can use Costco’s auto program which helps.
I have a long commute so good mpg is essential. Im looking for something 40mpg or greater on the highway.
I’ve looked at the VW Jetta SE.. Toyotas are actually impossible to get rn. I’ve considered the Honda Civic but with all the dealer markups I’m worried about the same as Toyota. I used to have a Mazda and loved it, but the mpg is underwhelming on all their models. What am I not thinking about that a should be?
I worked so hard to save the money I have for this purchase, and even at 25k I’m dipping into money I’ve saved for my wedding. Cars a couple of years old with 10k miles are as much as new cars. This car market is shit and it’s hard not to feel really, really depressed.

Some background: My 2016 Civic MT has been perfect, however, with my boys getting older, it's too small for certain activities, so I've been looking at midsized trucks. We've always had Hondas in the family, so we are well aware of Honda's reliability and resale. I have 10 years experience in the automotive field, parts, service and sales, so I'd like to think I know what I am doing.
I began internet research of midsized trucks a few months ago and giggled when I saw how in love the internet was in with the Honda Ridgeline. My ignorance was thinking its Honda's half assed attempt at cutting into the sales of other manufacturers. As I continued my research, the appeal of the Ridgeline quickly became apparent, the only downfall is the more extreme off-roading ability, but after talking to friends, you have to be prepared to spend big bucks, break parts, and scratch paint. We went off-roading in two Tacoma's on this trip, and while the Toyota's off-roading was excellent, it wasn't ideal for my family life.
Last night, I was coming back from vacation on an 8-hour drive. Halfway through I saw a Honda dealership....hell why not? I stopped at the Salinas Auto Mall. They were just about to close up but were kind enough to give me the keys to a 2023 HPD edition.
I am completely in love with this vehicle. Just as the internet said, the real-life, day-to-day usefulness of this vehicle is off the charts. The rear cargo trunk is huge, the rear leg room is excellent (I'm a hair under 6'), the interior is extremely comfortable, and as a whole is again, so, so useful, especially for a family. Then I drove it...one of the best handling trucks I've ever driven, the engine has tons of power with an outstanding torque curve, the paddle shifters make the fact that there are no manual transmissions tolerable. The build quality felt excellent.
I hope to be an owner of one in the next year or so, maybe when the next gen comes out, the used ones will come down in price.

Hello, I've got a list of things I'm looking for in a car that I'm not even sure is possible given my budget, but I wanted to get your thoughts. I'm looking for cars that will make driving an enjoyable and safe experience, so i can look forward to getting in the car, instead of looking at it like "ok, I'm about to do the most dangerous thing that I usually do in a day (drive), so i want to be on high alert". Here's what I'm looking for, in order of importance:

1. Safety, 5 star ratings from nhtsa and iihs preferred, newer features like imminent impact detection and lane assist,etc. Also, not looking to drive a super heavy brick around, although I know that adding size and mass inherently adds to the safety of a vehicle as long as it isn't easy to roll over. Some sort of middle ground, smaller SUVs, hatchbacks, larger sedans, etc. I also have ready that Bigger=safer isn't always true because you compromise on handling and maneuverability, aka the ability to avoid a crash in the first place (besides being attentive when driving). So something that doesn't compromise too much on handling, but is still really safe and time tested.
2. Enjoyment.... to me this is the feeling of feeling comfortable, and confident in my car. It's got a little juice and acceleration, isn't a behemoth slug or an ultra luxurious heavy boat, but still has some quality of life and comfort in it. Mostly will be a commuter, but the occasional 20hr road trip might happen and I don't want that to totally suck.
3. Price, reliability,holding value. I think everyone wants this.... No crazy maintenance, if i decide to sell in 3-5 years will it hold at least some value and not leave me in the hole by losing 70% of the money i spent. I'd like to stay in the 25-30k range, ok with used, and am ok with spending more if it means that the car will end up holding more value over time. I'm not really sure if all this is even possible, but i wanted some more options than what i've researched so far:

Subaru Outback - Solid option... I'm worried its a little too commutery and big/boring, but i will probably test drive one of these to see what I think. Appreciate some other input here.
Volvo XC90 - always comes up as the safest car around. I'm not sure how these fare in maintenance, reliability, holding value, but they also seem like really huge and heavy cars (which would explain their safety), but might make braking and handling to avoid a crash in the first place a little more difficult. How much of a factor is that.... not sure. I try and pay as much attention as possible when driving.
Honda Civic Type R - definitely skewed towards the higher performing, speedier and good handling side of things, but i thought this was an interesting option because it would have honda's safety behind it, and it might make driving fun if I feel in control and connected to the car. Would definitely spend time getting used to the speed and handling on a track or something if necessary. Unfortunately its not fully rated by the iihs and nhtsa and is pricier than other things I've seen, but I'd consider it.
Mazda 6 - Similar in vibe to the above but a little toned down, worried its not as safe because its too much smaller than the outback, but upon googling weights.... it seems it weighs the same as an outback? I've also had a friend that had a ton of issues with the keys and maintenance but im not sure if thats an outlier.
Thoughts on other common SUVs, cx-5, crv? I think those to me seem bigger and slower, but my understanding of what "handling" actually is might be pretty terrible since Im not a car person and haven't driven much beyond standard commuter sedans.
EDIT: I looked these up on autotempest and they ranged from 40k-60k. Esp the type R which is definitely an outlier of what i looked at. Its more appropriate to say the budget is 40k, so any newer type R is out of the budget. Yeah there's a lot of contradictions in here which isn't great... It might be better to narrow it to 40k budget, safe, but not super large and sluggish.

I’m 19 years old and I currently drive a pretty cool older sports car (Maybe worth 8k if i were to sell it). Very soon, I am planning on buying my Aunts used 2012 Honda Civic to use as a daily car (better gas mileage for commuting). I am buying it for $5700. I am planning on keeping my sports car for the time being and storing it.
Here’s where i need some help. I currently have 15k-16k saved up in my savings account. My aunt believes I should get a loan even though I have more than enough to pay cash for the new car. They say it will really help my credit but I already have a credit score of 732. With the loan, my best option is to do a 2 year loan with an 8.9% interest rate to borrow all $5,700. The interest rate is high because i’m a first time car loaner. There is also a $250 loan initiation fee.
Is it even worth it to get the loan to help my credit? I would be paying a lot more money for the car if I do.

Hi all, I just graduated this month and accepted a position in my field salaried $60,000 in a pretty average cost of living city in the Midwest. I got a full-ride to my university and have no debt on any kind. I own my phone, vehicle, and only use my credit card for gas each month where I pay it off in full. I’m wondering how I should be saving my money.
My job doesn’t have a 403b retirement match or contribution until one year of employment so I’m wondering if it’s worth contributing to, and if so in what amount? I will be moving cities soon so I’m not 100% sure of my rent & expenses yet. I’m imagining having at-least $1000 a month I can save. I am being advised to contribute to a Roth IRA and will probably be able to max my contributions. I have 10,000 that I will be putting in an HYSA (thus far it is in a normal savings account) and it is reserved as my emergency fund (I have a couple thousand I keep for day to day surprises but the 10,000 I’ve had for years and do not touch.) My big financial question is related to my car, or rather my next car. I currently have a 2010 Honda Civic EX with around 185,000 miles on it. It’s been very good to me and does not currently have any issues, but it is getting up there so I cautiously anticipate it might start to need more work in which case I’d rather get something new. I would like to avoid taking on any kind of debt, including a car note so I’m wondering if I should focus my savings on a new vehicle. For as long as my car is driving fine I’m in no rush to get a new car, and wondering if I should go for new or just a newer, used vehicle. I want a Toyota or a Honda, if I go used preferably less than 100,000 miles I am all for practicality and reliability. So I guess my question is how much should I be contributing to what? Should I max out a Roth IRA, continue to contribute to my HYSA or 403b, focus on the car or a little bit of everything?
I understand most people my age aren’t in my position and don’t even have the option to save, so I’d love to do it right. I will be meeting with my financial advisor in two weeks (I do not pay for these services, she’s a family friend) but I thought I’d ask here as well.

Ive been dailying a 2012 Chrysler 200 2.4 for almost 5 years. it just turned over 78K miles (bought at 32K) but ive been in 4 decent collisions with wildlife totaling 4 bumper covers, 2 sets of headlights, an AC condenser, 2 core supports and general wear is 2 wheel bearings, 1 tie rod end, 1 lower ball joint, 1 starter and i currently have an axle that has flung its grease everywhere that im waiting for it to explode lmfao and a shock thats leaking. badly. Im at the point where i just want somithing else, especially since im no longer in school and im considering moving more to the city for better jobs.
Im looking at options for a newer car that can actually get out of its own way. This 200 is the 2nd slowest car ive owned, only being beat by my 92 toyota corrola wagon lol. For about 2 years i was dead set on getting another 200 but with the 3.6L until recently i decided this really isnt THAT good of a car. Merging onto the interstate is a foot to the floor and hold it. Top speed of 95? Really?
So, Ive looked into the Kia K5 GT, but they seems to be out of my price range, if you can even find one
2017+ ford fusion sport 2.7L. Love the fusion, my dad had a 12 and a 17. these are surprisingly quick and can be had for 19-23K. Really want one of these lil sleepers.
Focus ST/RS but i dont really want another manual vehicle, i save that for the weekend toys.
Honda accord sport 2.0T?
Are all Golf GTI's 30k+?
04-08 Acura TL but ohio rust has eaten most of them up
I Used to have an 03 Infinity G35, while a fun daily it shares the same story as the TL, but usually more beat on
dont care for Nissan 350/370. at all. yuck.
What else is out there new or used?

Hey all, hoping you can help a trans woman out! I have a 03 Honda Civic. I noticed last week that I didn't have heat in my car, , but was working from home so forgot about it.
Went out today and drove about 2 miles and my temperature light came on, and the needle was on hot. Immediately pulled over and shut it off. I smelled a slight burning smell, but no smoke or leaks. Popped the hood and the coolent was empty. I put a gallon of antifreeze in that I had in the trunk and headed home.
It is 20 degrees out, but I was overheating after about 1 mile, kept pulling over to cool it, but made it home.
Any ideas what it could be? My Dad was my mechanic and he passed, he would always explain these things to me. Also, should I be able to drive this to a garage 3 miles away, or should I get it towed?
Thanks a bunch!

What car should I get? Budget is around $80k-90k and needs to be 4 door for work. Looking for: -fast, sporty, good handling -very luxury -CarPlay. -mid sized sedan -manual preferred but good automatic is fine. -would prefer lightly used for best value but less than 5 years old. -not terrible depreciation. -good looking/timeless design. -responds well to mods, won’t to go crazy but simple bolt ons/tune. Want to keep it reliable. -exhaust sounds good. No hybrids, 4 cyl, or EVs.
Current cars: -2012 CTS-V sedan manual (DD) -2014 Porsche 911 (fun) -2001 Honda S2000 (fun) -2020 Lexus LX 570 (family/dogs).
Background: I have owned BMWs and I am comfortable DIY, I do all my own maintenance and repairs. I would be planning to sell my CTS-V even though it kind of kills me. I want something a little nicer and more modern inside. Massaging seats would be awesome.
I’m in the south so don’t need awd but I would appreciate being able to put the power down without crazy tires/drag radials.
I’m kind of leaning F90 M5 Comp, G80 M3, or the CT5-V Blackwing manual but the G80 is so ugly and the Blackwing is real hard to get in manual and seem like they are over $100k even used. Also the Blackwing doesn’t look great IMO but better than the M3. Also I am a turbo guy…my current V supercharger is great but I just love turbos.
Also kicking around used Panamera Turbo S (cross truismo is sweet), Mercedes E63s, Audi RS7, or RS5 (but never been a fan of Audi, they are boring styling IMO). I would love an RS6 avant but seem way too expensive for my budget.
I love the look of the F90 M5 but depreciation will proly be brutal knowing my previous BMWs.
If I didn’t need a 4 door for work reasons I would order a Lotus Emira but they waitlist is insane I’ll proly never get one.
I only drive like 10k miles per year and love driving in the twisty mountain roads nearby.
Thanks in advance!

The physical sockets on my rear turn signals (2019 Honda Civic EX) have rusted and no longer work. I tried looking up the part number to order but this shit kinda confusing 😂 please help. It’s a grey part that has a green electrical connector.

Hey all, wanted to ask for advice, I’ve got a p0171 code coming up on my 1998 Honda civic 1.6L manual trans
Things I’ve replaced so far (related to other CEL codes I’ve had before this one):
-new front o2 sensor (was throwing a o2 sensor code before all this, tested it and sure enough o2 sensor was dead, replaced it and that code is gone) -new fuel filter (was long overdue for it old filter was pretty clogged up) - new distributor (along with that o2 sensor code I previously had, I also had a random misfire code p0300. Took apart the distributor to look at everything and the cap bolts broke off in the dizzy housing so I bought new so I didn’t have to worry about them) -new spark plugs and spark plug wires (did a tune up, plugs and wires were long overdue anyways, plugs were all sorts of corroded and had built up on the tips, wires had cracks in them and were way past mileage of changing them. - new fuel pump (bought this car and it didn’t start diagnosed it to be the fuel pump was bad, brand new one is in and car runs now!)
Outside of all of those parts the other diagnostic work I’ve done for this thing is:
Sprayed for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner, sprayed both manifolds and all vaccum connections. No leaks at all, no uptick or drop off in rpm’s while spraying and nothing got sucked in at all, made sure to do this on a cold engine aswell that way it wouldn’t just burn off in some of the hotter spots. - checked all correlating sensors (TPS sensor, MAP sensor, o2 sensor) all checked out good. Tested the fuel pressure regulator and that checks out as well, matches the service manuals readings with the vaccum line on, or off and matches the readings with snap throttle.
Short term fuel trim is +32% Long term fuel trim is +28%
If I reset the fuel trims (clear out the ecu disconnect battery negative for 5 minutes) When it first starts and the fuel trims are low the car runs like shit, idles weird and has a rough idle, once the fuel trims shoot up and it adjust, the idle evens out perfectly.
Front o2 sensor is oscillating up and down but does tend to read high, .5-.6v reading
Rear o2 sensor is reading a consistent 1.4v
Does anyone have any ideas where to go from here?

I went to CarMax for the first time ever thinking I will get to keep the car I want. I traded my 2010 honda civic for a 2019 Subraru Ascent with 48k miles and put 22k down also. The Subaru was 29k and only need to pay off 10k. Close to a month of not receiving my plates I call them and they say there is something wrong with the title and gave me another temporary plate. Another month stil no answers until just last Friday they tell me i need to bring the car back because there is something wrong with the title first it was the wrong mileage now its the previous owners signature. Unfortunately they will not give me the same car for the same price and I found out the car i have now has 2 accidents and was not told. They will be giving me back my full downpayment and the two months that i paid plus a 2k tax credit for trading my car. They are blaming all this on the auction house. Is this normal for an auction house not to confirm all information before selling a used car?

I am about to purchase a new SUV and I'm not sure which to choose! It's my first SUV. My wife and I have had a 2009 Scion tC (mine), 2012 Scion xD (wife's), and a 2017 Civic EX-T (ours lol). We are looking at the 2023 Honda Pilot, 2023 Highlander, and the 2023 Subaru Ascent. We test drove all three and I honestly am having trouble deciding. They all seemed great on the test drive. We keep our vehicles for a long time usually 10 - 12 years or longer if they're still good shape. It's going to be my daily driver and our trip car. We live in Florida so no snow, but we may take some trips up to the snow in the winters. What made you choose the Highlander over the competition and would you make the same choice now? Thanks for your help!

I am about to purchase a new SUV and I'm not sure which to choose! It's my first SUV. My wife and I have had a 2009 Scion tC (mine), 2012 Scion xD (wife's), and a 2017 Civic EX-T (ours lol). We are looking at the 2023 Pilot, 2023 Toyota Highlander, and the 2023 Subaru Ascent. We test drove all three and I honestly am having trouble deciding. They all seemed great on the test drive. We keep our vehicles for a long time usually 10 - 12 years or longer if they're still good shape. It's going to be my daily driver and our trip car. We live in Florida so no snow, but we may take some trips up to the snow in the winters. What made you choose the Pilot over the competition and would you make the same choice now? Thanks for your help!

I am about to purchase a new SUV and I'm not sure which to choose! It's my first SUV. My wife and I have had a 2009 Scion tC (mine), 2012 Scion xD (wife's), and a 2017 Civic EX-T (ours lol). We are looking at the 2023 Honda Pilot, 2023 Toyota Highlander, and the 2023 Ascent. We test drove all three and I honestly am having trouble deciding. They all seemed great on the test drive. We keep our vehicles for a long time usually 10 - 12 years or longer if they're still good shape. It's going to be my daily driver and our trip car. We live in Florida so no snow, but we may take some trips up to the snow in the winters. What made you choose the Ascent over the competition and would you make the same choice now? Thanks for your help!

I am so sick and tired of all the bitching, moaning, and whining from people who are big sad that their student loans aren't being forgiven and now hearing that they tossed out Biden's plan brings so much joy to my heart. NOT BECAUSE OTHERS WILL SUFFER BUT BECAUSE I KNOW MY HARD WORK AMOUNTED TO SOMETHING!
To bring some context to my frustration:
I graduated with a computer science degree and was $75,000.00 in debt. I don't come from a wealthy family and I knew I was going to be responsible to pay it back so I ended up taking two jobs to make ends meet and I withheld myself from buying things I truly wanted to make sure I took care of this massive amount of debt I had incurred during uni.
I watched my friends take vacations, go to concerts, and lease luxury cars who were in the exact same situation as I were. I bought a used 2003 honda civic which I drove for over a decade, I lived with 3 other roommates to save money, I didn't go on a single vacation, I didn't dine out, and I worked my ass to the bone to make sure I solidified my financial future while many of my friends chose the short term gratification route. NONE of these choices were easy nor ideal. I WISH I could go on vacations, I wish I could drive a better car, I wish I could dine out more often, I wish I could treat myself to nice things but I knew I had a responsibility that took precedent.
Now after 13 years I am completely debt free and just when I was paying off my final amount of debt, I find out that they are going to assist and/or forgive student loans!?!?!???!? ARE YOU KIDDING ME? IF I KNEW THIS, I WOULD HAVE NOT WORKED SO DAMN HARD! I WOULD HAVE TAKEN THAT VACATION, I WOULD HAVE ATE OUT, I WOULD HAVE DONE SO MANY THINGS DIFFERENTLY.
My friends and I would get in heated discussions about this topic now that they are in even more debt and exclaimed I was the one being cruel. This makes my blood absolutely boil. Sure, there are exceptions but it is not the rule. But most of these people in debt are in debt due to terrible life decisions. 73% of student borrowers claimed that they wanted to use this relief to go on more vacations and to dine out... SCREW YOU!
There are examples after examples of young people making dumb decision after dumb decision putting themselves in their precarious financial predicaments and then they expect SOMEONE ELSE TO COVER THEIR TAB? No.
You have a fiduciary duty to pay back what you borrowed. This is how it works. I'm sorry your communications degree at an Ivy League school isn't going to earn your top dollar, maybe you should have thought twice about your future before you signed on the dotted line. Was community college not prestigious enough for you? Because that's where I started off while my friends were walking around with their noses in the air going to their 4 year.
I am sick and tired of hearing their woe is me stories! Now being debt free, knowing that I worked my ass off and that it paid off in the end makes my sacrifice actually feel worthwhile. If this bill got passed and their debt was relieved I would have felt my blood, sweat, and tears was for nothing.
I get emotional because that sacrifice all those years were EXTREMELY emotionally taxing for me. Looking back now, I wouldn't change a thing.

My choice between cars is the following ^ above and also some 4 door civics, just looking for a good entry level manual car that has good aftermarket support, I'm coming from owning a 2013 Elantra

I am moving soon and will be turning a 35 minute commute into an hour commute and was looking for a car more suited to burden the miles I will be putting on it. I currently own a Wrangler worth ~23,000 with no payments . I was looking at Honda Civics ( ideally a hatchback ) and was trying to decide on whether it is worth it to cough up that extra cash to buy it new or if that was stupid/ is there a better car other than a Civic?
I am just having trouble justifying ~ 30,000 on a car when I could get 5% on that with a CD and am looking for advice.