Ford ranger clutch master cylinder replacement

Need opinions on this “build”

2023.06.06 04:54 Onyx_748 Need opinions on this “build”

Need opinions on this “build”
This is the build list that I received from a mutual friend of the original owner on my 748. This is everything he changed on the bike. Is there anything I should look into upgrading in the future?
853 big bore kit High compression pistol pistons Carrillo Rods Lightened and balanced crank Ported and polished heads Carbon Arrow exhaust Black Ceramic coated exhaust Ohlins front fork internal kit with anodized utter fork sleeves Ohlins rear suspension Carbon air box, air ducts, front fender, heel guards and lower belly scoop Black powder coated frame Gloss black plaint DID Erv3 gold chain Ohlins Race dampener Crg clutch and brake levers Yoyodyne clutch master cylinder Steel braided lines
submitted by Onyx_748 to Ducati [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 04:05 ph0enix76 Gears getting stuck

Gears getting stuck
I have a 1993 5 speed inline 6 YJ, I didn’t have any issues shifting until today. I was at a left turn waiting to go and had it in first with the clutch and break both pressed in. She starts shuttering like she wants to stall, I went to take it out of first, but I’m stuck in first. I gave her some gas then again tried to take it out of first but I couldn’t move the shifter. She stalled then let me put it in neutral and start back up. Did it again when I was going around a turn and went to shift into second I was stuck in first. And when I reversed in the driveway and went to park I couldn’t get out of reverse. In all cases, I had to let it stall so I could put it in neutral.
My fluid levels are good and there doesn’t seem to be air in the system.
I’m thinking about buying a new kit and replacing replacing the master and slave cylinders. I’d have to pull the tranny. My brother thinks it could be a shifter linkage. I don’t think so because even when I had the clutch pressed it was stalling.
Was curious if anyone had a similar issue
submitted by ph0enix76 to JeepWrangler [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 03:44 JTMx29 2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac fuel trims and rough idle

Hello All,
My Uncle owns a 2008 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with a V8 4.6L 3V engine. The vehicle has only 60k and has run very well for the past two years since he purchased it. Unfortunately, last week the vehicle took a turn for the worse. My cousin, who was driving the vehicle, said it suddenly started running poorly.
The main complaint is a rough idle and low power, although, the vehicle can be driven. My Uncle has taken it to a Ford dealership as well as two other mechanics and no one can tell him how to fix the problem. The Ford dealership mentioned replacing the entire wiring harness but that this would be no guarantee. The other shops mentioned a valve adjust or some type of 'drive train' issue. From what I understand is that between all 3 shops a compression test and smoke test were completed. Compression was fine and no vacuum leaks were detected.
My uncle has cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced all O2 sensors, replaced the cam shaft sensor, and replaced all 8 spark plugs-- the issue has persisted.
I went over there tonight to use my bluetooth OBD2 scanner to grab the codes. I am not a mechanic but enjoy learning about vehicles and how they work. First off, the vehicle runs rough at idle and under RPM load. It honestly doesn't run terrible, but it doesn't run great either. I hooked up my scanner and connected it to my Android tablet. Here were my findings:
P0174- Powertrain System too Lean (Bank2)
P0208- Powertrain Injector Circuit - Cylinder 8
P0301- Powertrain Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0352- Powertrain Ignition Coil ‘B’ Primary/Secondary Circuit
I cleared the codes and re-scanned after the car had been idling for 5 minutes:
P0208- Powertrain Injector Circuit- Cylinder 8
P0301- Powertrain Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Raw Data:
Fuel Rail Pressure: 38 PSI Mass Airflow Sensor Rate: 5.31 g/s
02 Sensor 1: .72 Volts 02 Sensor 2: .78 Volts 02 Sensor 5: .11 Volts 02 Sensor 6: .12 Volts
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short: -8.59% Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long: -4.69%
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short: 21.09% Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long: 25%
Now, based upon what I have learned is that the 02 sensors should 'loop' from low voltage state to a higher voltage state. Two of the sensors stayed at .1-.12 Volts while the other two stayed around .75 Volts.
Additionally, the fuel trim for banks 1 and 2 appear to fluctuate a bit, but the values above are after the vehicle had been warmed up and running for 5-10 minutes. Based upon the values for Bank 1 I would say it's running a bit rich while Bank 2 is running extremely lean. We upped the RPMs and bank 2's fuel trim did not get any better, so the mechanic who said there were no vacuum leaks may have been correct.
So, after all is said I am not sure what to recommend that my Uncle check next. I was thinking of maybe checking the resistance on the 8th cylinder's fuel injector.
Does anyone have any recommendations? I am truly stumped. Thank you!
submitted by JTMx29 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 03:25 julianwolf5 CMAK

PFA going to be doing a cmak soon and would like to do a few “while you’re in theres” to make it bulletproof. id appreciate advice/insight on what else i should look into replacing/upgrading while the car is down, thanks in advance! so far my list is as follows… zspeed cmak/clutch/flywheel kit tilton master cylinder rjm clutch pedal mototrans mounts pilot bushing arp hardware maybe the z1 ss single piece clutch line? don’t know if it’ll be needed or not considering both the master and slave kits come with a new ss line..
submitted by julianwolf5 to 350z [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 02:56 Basajuanak First Gen Cummins Brakes Vacuum Diagram

First Gen Cummins Brakes Vacuum Diagram
I just bought a 1990 Dodge 5.9L w250 Non-intercooled
Bought it knowing it had stiff brakes, I’ve replaced the booster which helped but still stiff occasionally. If I’m just rolling on idle not accelerating, brakes are spongy but okay. If I accelerate and then try to brake they go stiff.
I’m guessing I have a vacuum leak somewhere but not sure if the booster is bad too. Seems like, it’s not able to hold a vacuum for both acceleration and braking.
My booster has a check valve with three hoses, one going to the vacuum pump, one going to the cruise control(?), one to the sensor(?). So I was told, anyone have a vacuum diagram of this confusing mess? If that’s where the lines are going, to test the booster, could I remove and plug the sensor and cruise control lines and I should have perfect brakes? I also have this unused vacuum hole?
Even though I believe it’s a vacuum issue I do have on new drums, shoes, rotors, pads, wheel cylinders. New master. Bled the brakes.
I have confirmed vacuum from the vacuum pump to the top of the line that connects to the booster.
Clearly I don’t have a bunch of knowledge with this system and would appreciate and corrections or guidance!
submitted by Basajuanak to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 02:24 Devigiorno 2.8L V6 - American Engineering with German Manufacturing

The first V6 offered in our beloved Rangers is none other than the forgotten Cologne 2.8 V6. The idea for a 60º V6 originated from the 60º V4 in Europe. Introduced in 1974, it produced 115 horsepower and 150 torque - not much compared to the V6 engines of today. It only lived for two years in the Ranger (83-85), but was offered in a wide range of vehicles. There were even turbocharged models produced! Sadly it did not break the 200 horsepower mark stock (to my knowledge) and there was some controversy about the numbers that Ford was reporting. I am unable to find which years/model 2.8 engines will interchange, however I imagine the one offered in the Bronco II will. As for performance, not a ton of aftermarket stuff is still produced. At one point fuel injection and turbo kits were available.
I was able to scare up some engine specs on The Ranger Station:
Engine Family ‘Cologne’
Displacement 171cid
Cylinders 6
Arrangement of Cylinders ‘V’ Shape
Bore x Stroke 3.66 x 2.70
Compression Ratio 8.7:1
Fuel System Carburetor
Horsepower 115 @ 4600rpm
Torque 150 @ 2600rpm
Oil Pressure 40-60psi @ 2000rpm
Tune Up
Spark Plug AWSF-42C
Spark Plug Gap 0.044
Ignition Timing 10 degrees BTDC
Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6
Distributor Rotation Clockwise
Valve Clearance Intake 0.014
Valve Clearance Exhaust 0.016
Oil Capacity With Filter 5qts
Cooling System Capacity (Quarts) W/AC- 7.2 / W/O AC 7.8
Torque Specifications
Seat Angle Degree 45
Face Angle Degree 44
Spring Test Pressure 143lbs @ 1.22in
Spring Installed Height 1.58-1.61in
Stem-to-Clearance Intake 0.0008-0.0025in
Stem-to-Clearance Exhaust 0.0018-0.0035in
Stem Diameter Intake 0.3159-0.3167in
Stem Diameter Exhaust 0.3149-0.3156in
Crankshaft Specs
Main Bearing Journal Diameter 2.2433-2.2441in
Main Bearing Oil Clearance 0.0008-0.0015in
Shaft End-play 0.004-0.008in
Thrust on No. 3
Connecting Rod
Journal Diameter 2.1252-2.1260in
Oil Clearance 0.0006-0.0016in
Side Clearance 0.004-0.011in
Length 5.1386-5.1413in
Piston and Ring Specs
Piston to Bore Clearance 0.0011-0.0019in
Ring Side Clearance Top Compression 0.0020-0.0033in
Ring Side Clearance Bottom Compression 0.0020-0.0033in
Ring Side Clearance Oil Control Snug
Ring Gap Top Compression 0.015-0.023in
Ring Gap Bottom Compression 0.015-0.023in
Ring Gap Oil Control 0.015-0.023in
Motorcraft 2150A Carburetor Specifications
Choke Pulldown Setting .136
Fast Idle Cam Setting 1984 V-notch
Fast Idle Cam Setting 1985 Hi-Cam
Dechoke Setting .250
Float Setting (Wet) .810
Float Setting (Dry) 7/16″ (1984) 1/16″ (1985)
Accelerator Pump Lever Location #4
Choke Cap Setting V-notch (1984) 3NR (1985)
Fast Idle 3000rpm
Firing Order 1-4-2-5-3-6 / Distributor Rotation – Clockwise
Feel free to add any info you deem as necessary in the comments!
Source: The Ranger Station
submitted by Devigiorno to FordRangerEngines [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 01:51 TradingDegen is this fair pricing? ~3k quote

is this fair pricing? ~3k quote
went in because i was leaking a lot of brake fluid, brakes weren’t working until fully pushed in. mechanic said i would need to pretty much replace the whole rear brake system including the axel and diff because the fluid got everywhere and when spinning the wheel the diff is grinding, said rough estimate would be 3 grand maybe more….2003 ford ranger 130k miles
submitted by TradingDegen to AskMechanics [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 01:45 SavagecavemanMAR Automatic to manual swap question

Automatic to manual swap question
Hey everybody! First time posting here! I have a 1980 240D that I am currently converting from automatic to manual. I have a few questions today- 1) Pertaining to this silver box under the driver side dash. Looks like it ties into the steering column. Can anyone tell me what this box is and where I am supposed to hang it from? I believe it WAS attached to the side of the automatic brake pedal. 2) Getting ready to install the clutch reservoir hose into the existing automatic brake master cylinder reservoir, but there is a little nipple that looks like it’s needs to be cut off. Any recommendations how to do this safely? Or should I just up and replace the brake master cylinder with the one from the manual? The brake master cylinder that is currently installed is pretty much brand new with new rubber grommets… I would just swap the reservoirs, but I didn’t want to break anything potentially crispy…. And 3) Do I need to install the clutch safety switch? The existing one is broken so I’ll need to replace it. But on the donor car I got these parts from, I don’t recall there being any wires going to that area… so I guess what I need to know is where harness for the clutch safety switch plugs into on the vehicles harness so I can bypass it, at very least for now.
submitted by SavagecavemanMAR to w123 [link] [comments]

2023.06.06 00:16 Findail '73 Brake Bleed From Hell

Putting my 1973 Mustang back on the road after sitting for a decade and have been working on the brakes lately. New calipers up front but the rear drum cylinders looked good. Replaced all the lines, had an issue with the master so I just replaced it. Bled it on the bench and hooked it up, but can't get any fluid through the lines to come out. Could there be air trapped in the distribution block? If so, is there a way to bleed it? Other thoughts on what the issue might be?
submitted by Findail to classicmustangs [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 23:50 hugznotdrugz2k17 2020 Door Latch Actuator Linkage Issue.

My door latch actuator died so I installed the replacement Ford part. I've done a handful of these over the years without issue. This one however was really tight removing the old one and the (Handle Rod) linkage connecting the actuator to the door handle lock cylinder fell off.
I reinstalled it as I thought it would be installed (see photos) but it won't allow the actuator to unlock the door with remote like the travel of the rod is preventing it from fully unlocking. Same using the remote.
Since I'm not able to lock my door like this I removed that rod and I can lock and unlock but in order to unlock I have to hit the unlock twice because it does not travel up far enough the first time the unlock button is pressed. But at least I can lock and unlock.
I'm kinda stuck. and can't seem to find any diagram or video of the linkage online. Looking for some insight. 2020 XLT power door locks.
I used the old door lock actuator assembly as an example to show how I had the rod installed with the boot. See photos.
Video is with new lock actuator installed but without the Handle Rod linkage.
submitted by hugznotdrugz2k17 to AskMechanics [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 23:01 Yourhopegaming What do you think would be a fair price for this? they are asking 2.2k, but doesn't seem like it would be worth any more than 1000

What do you think would be a fair price for this? they are asking 2.2k, but doesn't seem like it would be worth any more than 1000 submitted by Yourhopegaming to civic [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 22:55 kasutori_Jack 2023 r/baseball Power Rankings -- Week 10: Quest for #1 Tightens, Pirates More Seaworthy than Mariners, Tigers Drop Their Guard and Cleveland Picks It Up, Astros Back in Top 5

Looking for Around the Horn?
Hey Sportsfans — it's time for Week 10 of baseball Power Rankings: Happy first Monday of June, everyone! Hopefully you've paid your rent, paid your bills, and sent us our monthly check to keep your favorite team higher than they deserve. Have a fabulous Monday!
Every voter has their own style / system and the only voting instructions are these:
"To an extent determined individually, you must take into account how strong a team is right now and likely to be going forward. You must, to some degree, give weight to the events and games of the previous week."
TRANSPARENCY: This link will show you who voted each team where and has added neat statistics!
New Voter Chance: Are you a fan of the Dodgers? We received tepid response last week and are still looking for a new Dodgers voter. I'll be reaching out to Dodgers shortly to help with the search. -- apologies for the delay. Check out this link to see how to apply!
If something is a little messed up, feel free to pester me let me know.
Total Votes: 29 of 29. Technically a perfect vote?
# Team Δ Comment Record
1 Rays 0 Why replace writers with AI when the Rays bullpen has proven to be the most cost efficient way to generate drama in 2023? The team doing so well makes it hard to complain, but Jason Adam also makes it so easy, yanno? Happy pride month y'all! In other positive news, Glasnow has looked good if not otherworldly in his return, he'll look to continue finding his groove. Yandy Diaz also hit a quintessential little league homerun, which should make everyone everywhere happy! 42-19
2 Rangers 0 hahahahaha offense go brrrrrrrt. Big week this week with a series against the struggling Cardinals and then the big weekend matchup against the Rays. Ending another month on top of the division and we are having fun! 38-20
3 Braves 0 Horrid start to the week by losing a series to the Oakland "Triple A's" (don't @ me...I heard their own annoucers call them that), but we salvaged the week in AZ thanks to Eddie Rosario playing OUT OF HIS MIND and capping off our weekend with a go ahead Slam in the top of the ninth on Sunday. We are banged up on the hump, but are pushing through. If this is a rough patch, I am happy. First up this week is the Mets. A very important series to get it all back on track. 35-24
4 Astros +2 Crucial series win against the Angels to finish off the weekend. Saturday's game was a lot of fun, aside from the top of the 7th inning - but we don't talk about that. Let's talk instead about how Alex Bregman's grand slam, 4-walk day can be 100% attributed to his wife throwing out the first pitch (it was Girls Night Out) and Bregs subsequently skipping the photo op with her to finish his warm-up. 35-24
5 Dodgers -1 35-25
6 Orioles -1 Alternating wins and loses all week this past week. Losing two out of the last three series is not great. I then thought about it and obviously the Orioles can't win every game and can't win every series, so thinking they can, means I have more confidence in this team than I have in a very long time. Aaron Hicks has been a pleasant surprise filling in for Cedric, batting .455 with an OPS of 1.208. Even though the fans were severely against getting him, he seems to have been the right move so far. The next six games are against Milwaukee and KC, hopefully we go at least 4-2. 37-22
7 Yankees 0 Another strong road trip, another handful of injury questions. Is Nestor really hurt, or is this a “get right” phantom stint? Will Judge need IL time? Wtf’s Bader’s situation? In better news Stanton, Kahnle, and Donaldson are back, and Rodon is set to face live batters. It would be really fucking cool if we could get off the IL merry-go-round though. 36-25
8 Blue Jays +1 Very nice bouceback week(ish) after our AL East foes took us to Pound Town, with series wins over Minnesota and Milwauke (Algonquin for "the good land") before sweeping the Nye Mets. Bassitt continued to build on his '23 legend by nearly throwing another CGSO while his wife was going into labor in another country. Vladdy lasered his first HR not off a shitting-his-pants position player since May 4th, and still hasn't hit one at home, which is WILD. Belt overcame DFA screams from dipshits after an abysmal April (.519 OPS) with a hero-ball May (.940 OPS). Big tests coming up, tho, with HOU, BAL, MIN, and TEX next on the docket. Someone throw an irradiated spider at Manoah or something. 33-27
9 D-Backs -1 The Diamondbacks had a decent week, sweeping the Rockies in four games and coming within one out of taking two of three from the Braves. Alas, the Diamondbacks' bullpen is still the Diamondbacks' bullpen. Additionally, Geraldo Perdomo's abysmal peripherals are catching up with his early-season performance, and third base remains a question mark, as Josh Rojas still doesn't have a single home run on the season. 35-25
10 Twins 0 A 4-3 week, including another series win against the reigning WS Champions! The lineup still isn't consistent though and we're being carried by our good pitching. There's time to fix those issues as the summer goes on, especially in the AL Central where we don't have a lot of competition. 31-29
11 Brewers +2 In the words of noted Brewers fan Tom, "i don't understand how each day the lineup can look worse than the day before, like each day feels like rock bottom then it gets even worse somehow" That's pretty much Brewers fandom opinion of the Spring Training esque lineups Milwaukee is trotting out day after day. Somehow the team was 4-2 in the last week though. (Thanks Reds). Also, Reddit effectively kiling third party app support is terrible, and might actually be the thing that gets me to leave this Californian Hotel. 32-27
12 Red Sox 0 You know, I liked baseball more when we weren't .500. Losing Chris Sale to the injured list right as we get Whitlock and Paxton back is cruel but predictable. Our rotation has a lot of talent, but lacks the stamina to actually go deep into games. Houck, Whitlock, Pivetta and Kutter are all decent to really good 1st/2nd time through. Pair them up and have them each throw ~3-4 innings and you've basically Frankenstiened two 110 ERA+ starters! CHaim hire me please :) 30-29
13 Pirates +4 The Pirates had a miserable May. The pitching went from excellent to merely good while the offense was put on life support. The Bucs, who were 20-9 at the end of April, had dropped under the .500 mark on Memorial Day. Since then, the Bucs have won 5 straight — 2 against the Giants to pick up the Pirates' first (and only) series win in May, and then a sweep of the Cardinals for the first time since 2018. Yeah, the Pirates are only 31-27, but that puts them just a game out of first in the NL Central. Not bad considering where this team stood a week ago. 31-27
14 Angels 0 When he has been on the field and not getting into it with fans or wasting away on the injured list, Anthony Rendon has been a quietly solid presence in this Angels lineup. Slated to return back to the lineup within the next couple days, the team could use a boost in the middle part of the order, especially with runners on. 31-30
15 Mariners -4 A Mariner is a person who works aboard a watercraft as part of its crew, and may work in any one of a number of different fields that are related to the operation and maintenance of a ship. The profession of the Mariner is old, and the term Mariner has its etymological roots in a time when sailing ships were the main mode of transport at sea, but it now refers to the personnel of all watercraft regardless of the mode of transport, and encompasses people who operate ships professionally, be it for a military navy or civilian merchant navy, as a sport or recreationally. Up next: 2 @ Vedder Cup bros, 3 @ Troutanis 29-30
16 Mets -1 Since my last update, we swept the Phillies and we got swept by the Blue Jays. This is a weird Mets team who I think may just be pretty mediocre, though I suspect they'll stick sneak into the playoffs. Our record is back at .500 and we have the Braves in Atlanta next, which is not the kind of shit you want to see. Omar Narvaez will likely return from the IL this week, creating an interesting roster crunch which shouldn't be interesting at all, since current backup catcher Tomas Nido has an OPS of .278. 30-30
17 Marlins +1 Sweepy has been busy so far this year. The fish complete their 4th sweep of the season on the visiting A's, reports are sketchy but apparently he was last spotted saying "Mets are over rated". We'll get further clarification on what he meant by that next time he resurfaces. Sandy is going through it right now, if im being honest i think hes working through some mechanical issues cuz hes still lowkey struggling with location. His last outing was fairly good save one inning where he allowed a bunch of runs but he is slowly improving. Very slowly. The his week the marlins are gonna host the royals, followed with a trip to south side chicago. 32-28
18 Giants -2 The Giants went 2–4 with two 1-run losses. Normally losing a series to both the Orioles and Pirates would be problematic, but in the New Age, both teams are good and the Giants played hard 80% of the time. They are 5–7 in 1-Run Games, and 1-2 in extras, and with a +1 Run Diff (18th in MLB, -5 spots) they are slightly underperforming expected W/L Record. The Giants will be without Joc, Yaz, Conforto, Estrada, and Bart until tomorrow (expected), and Alex Wood is the latest casualty – gone for 12ish days. The rotation, led by Cobb, Webb, and Disco, will rely even more on the bullpen which usually means Jacob Junis (yay!) and Manaea (: / ). Cleaning up their act some, the bullpen ERA is now 20th in MLB (+3) and the whole staff at 15th in RA/G (=). The inconsistent offense, hampered by injuries and some mini-slumps, sits at 14th in RS/G (-2). Giants fans must hope a return to health will boost the bats, the younglings liven back up, and the bullpen holds the line @ Coors Field ( : / ) and vs the question-mark-of-a-team Chicago Cubs. 29-30
19 Padres +1 It was the first game at Petco for my Niece and her Father. He'd long written off the Padres, as a team of nobodies that would never try to win at a sport that ultimatley rigged for markets that weren't in San Diego County. As a sign of goodwill from my Sis, his ex-wife, they had amazing seats, down by the first base side, that were each in the triple digits. Over the last few years he'd gotten into the sport for the first time since '98, and for my Niece, it was the first time following any pro sport in her life. They sat down at their beautiful seats, had a couple of 'dogs, and by the third inning, San Diego was behind 7-0. Sigh. The Padres average 39k at Petco, ranking 5th in the majors in attendance. They have a 13-17 record in those games. 27-32
20 Guardians +3 I was on vacation this week, so I haven't been as aware of baseball as I should be. I did go to two games at Camden and two at Nationals Park while on my trip. The Guardians won a series against the Orioles and split one with the Twins, so now I'm being optimistic and will probably embarrass myself again. Also, I hope the Reds ranker is doing okay. 27-32
21 Phillies -2 What a miserable week it was to be a Phillies fan. They salvaged a 2-4 record by winning the weekend games against the Nationals, but were dreadful all week in games that were just close enough to keep your hopes up. The Phillies are currently 4.5 games out of the 3rd wild card spot with 3 other teams ahead of them. Trea Turner, who you'd think would have one of the highest floors in the league, is hitting .232 with a dreadful .276 OBP. Alec Bohm hit the IL, which means the infield regularly includes one or two of Josh Harrison, Kody Clemens (who's actually been quite hot the past few weeks), and AAAA quality Drew Ellis (who went 3/3 with 2 walks and 2 home runs on Sunday). The bats and pitching have completely died, but that's thankfully set the stage for Nick Castellanos to do what he does best. This week: a homestand with 3 against the Tigers and 3 against the Dodgers. 27-32
22 Cubs +2 This week was a much needed bounce back for the Cubs, as they took 2 out of 3 from both the Rays and Padres. Unfortunately, the week was marred by yet more struggles in the clutch and with RISP as well as Justin Steele's injury. Steele is out for at least 2 starts with forearm soreness, and will be dearly missed as he has kept the Cubs in game after game. The Cubs continue their West Coast road trip this week with sereis against the Angels and Giants following today's game in SD. 26-32
23 Cardinals -2 The Cardinals should be playing better, they aren't. They've been bad all season. Short of collective epiphany that sees them 30 up in their next 40 (lol, doubt it) there's no useful information I can put in this box past "Fire John Mozeliak." 25-35
24 Reds +1 It finally happened boys. After just a month of being separated, she gave me official divorce papers. I think she’s made it abundantly clear she has no interest in fixing things, and you know what? I get it. It’s alright. She told me straight up that she didn’t feel anything between us anymore, and no amount of therapy or counseling is gonna fix that, whatever was there is gone. She’s felt like that for a while, I just refused to see it, I was in denial. But i’m not anymore. I’m free, I am once more ready to set sail on the ocean of loneliness until I find land. I hope I can find land. I gotta find land. How we’ll divide time between our son is yet to be determined, but I know we’ll find a good compromise. I’m just…happy that the air is clear. No more pretending to enjoy each other's presence, no more fake smiles to mask our emptiness. No more. Anyway, let’s talk Reds baseball. We had a good road trip where our offense managed to shine but a horrid home series where we got pantsed by a division rival. The front office just refuses to throw the fans a bone. We continue to give playing time to people like Will Benson and Stuart Fairchild, all the while prospects like Elly De La Cruz and Christian Encarnacion-Strand are tearing up AAA to the point where there’s really nothing left for them to do. Both had problems with their Walk%, so what happened? The last couple weeks both have significantly improved their walk rate. They have nothing left to do in AAA if you ask me and plenty of the fanbase. Imagine if both can be successful in the MLB, what kind of boost of energy that would give to this team while they’re still in striking distance of the NL Central crown. Our starting pitching is still a major liability, Graham Ashcraft has just flat out forgotten how to pitch. The Bullpen is still keeping us in games and our offense can be truly clutch at times, but consistency is one thing we’ve lacked all season. Consistency, consistency, consistency. It’s not here. But with an injection of young talent, things could definitely turn around, or I guess you could say something that’s become a bit of a motto here in Cincinnati and with our recent ownership groups: We’re just a couple years away. 26-33
25 Tigers -3 RIP Riley Greene. RIP Eduardo Rodriguez. I guess the White Sox walkoff on Saturday where a Jose Cisnero pitch domed the home plate umpire for a wild pitch was emblematic of this week (shrugs). As a side note, man is this linup brutal, sporting a team slash line of .226/.302/.349 for the season. Yikes! This week: 3 at PHI, 3 vs. ARI. 26-31
26 White Sox +2 The AL Central being so competitive/non-competitive is the worst thing for the White Sox right now. Despite being 9 games under .500, they are only 5.5 games back in the division. They're stuck in limbo right now. In any sane world, they would already be selling parts, but in all likelihood, they'll have to sell some of the future at the deadline, only to go on a cold streak in mid September, finish 8 games out in the division, and make this awful season feel even worse. 26-35
27 Nationals -1 Rough week for the Nats losing 5 of 7 and getting even worse news with the announcement of Strasburg being shut down from all physical activity. While I can't speak for all Nats fans, I can speak for myself: Stephen Strasburg has absolutely nothing to prove. I genuinely would be ecstatic for him to ride off into the sunset without throwing another pitch before unvailing a statue with Zim on the corner of Capitol and Potomac. 25-34
28 Rockies -1 No Blurb Submitted 26-35
29 Royals 0 Congo rats to Scott Barlow on notching his 50th career save. And congo rats to Aroldis Chapman for rebuilding his career and being a trade chip. The Royals are going to fuck up the return, but at least he can get something back in another couple of months. I'm looking forward to surgery so I can be too drugged up to give a shit about this team. 18-41
30 Athletics 0 More a question than a curse, how could hell be any worse? 12-49
submitted by kasutori_Jack to baseball [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 22:33 Sunshine-Cookies Why is my pedal going to the floor?

2001 Ford Taurus: I recently replaced the Power Brake Booster and Brake Master Cylinder on my car. I tested the brakes in the drive way and it felt fine. I know you’re suppose to bleed each wheel after replacing the MC, so today I proceeded to do that today. I went with the bottle and hose method and I did it by myself. I pumped the pedal ‘till it got hard and then cracked the bleeder screw. I started with the rear passenger side. I did it a total of 12 times. The first 3 times i closed it and pumped it, but afterwards I left the screw open just kept pumping it slowly each time. I saw a few bubbles going out and eventually the new fluid started showing so I stopped. I made sure the reservoir didn’t get too low. It actually only dropped a little. I put the wheel back on and turned on the car to test it, but now the pedal goes to the floor. I know I tighten the bleeder screw but went back and tighten it again. I’ve had brake hoses ruptured on another car and it feels very similar to that. There no leaks, so I guess I might have gotten air into the system? I’m planning on later getting a second person so that way I can close the bleeder when the pedal goes back up, and I hope that will bleed all the air that got in. I did it like this in the past (I think it was just with 1 or 2 wheels since I didn’t have anybody to help me.) I don’t know what happened this time. And yes I did bench bleed the MC. Do you think I simply got air into the system by doing the solo method? I’m just hoping I don’t have to remove the MC and bench bleed it again since that was a pain 😩 
submitted by Sunshine-Cookies to DIYAutoRepair [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 22:32 Sunshine-Cookies Why is my pedal going to the floor?

2001 Ford Taurus: I recently replaced the Power Brake Booster and Brake Master Cylinder on my car. I tested the brakes in the drive way and it felt fine. I know you’re suppose to bleed each wheel after replacing the MC, so today I proceeded to do that today. I went with the bottle and hose method and I did it by myself. I pumped the pedal ‘till it got hard and then cracked the bleeder screw. I started with the rear passenger side. I did it a total of 12 times. The first 3 times i closed it and pumped it, but afterwards I left the screw open just kept pumping it slowly each time. I saw a few bubbles going out and eventually the new fluid started showing so I stopped. I made sure the reservoir didn’t get too low. It actually only dropped a little. I put the wheel back on and turned on the car to test it, but now the pedal goes to the floor. I know I tighten the bleeder screw but went back and tighten it again. I’ve had brake hoses ruptured on another car and it feels very similar to that. There no leaks, so I guess I might have gotten air into the system? I’m planning on later getting a second person so that way I can close the bleeder when the pedal goes back up, and I hope that will bleed all the air that got in. I did it like this in the past (I think it was just with 1 or 2 wheels since I didn’t have anybody to help me.) I don’t know what happened this time. And yes I did bench bleed the MC. Do you think I simply got air into the system by doing the solo method? I’m just hoping I don’t have to remove the MC and bench bleed it again since that was a pain 😩 
submitted by Sunshine-Cookies to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 22:25 sadphillipG119 Replaced Clutch Master and Slave Cylinders. Bled the system. Clutch pedal now bites too high, I think.

2005 Mazda 6 with the 2.3L & 5 speed. 140K miles, 50K of that put on in the past 3 years. I don't know if the clutch has ever been replaced.
Clutch pedal has been feeling a little weird at the bottom for a while, finally last week it got stuck to the floor and didn't disengage the clutch and unless I pulled it back up with my hand.
So I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinder. I had some issues bleeding, though: I bled it with a friend who knows more about cars than I and after a few hours of bleeding it (I was just pushing on the pedal and pulling it back up, he was opening the bleeder valve) it still had air coming out. Everything is connected correctly. We let it sit overnight and tried again the next morning...only took 10 minutes for the pedal to feel rather normal (as in, pedal comes back up and I can get in and out of gear).
The past few days I've been driving and it feels...wrong. I only have to push the pedal down ~40% to disengage the clutch enough to shift and like ~15% to bite. The car keeps lurching because of this. And my leg hurts from trying to find that exact spot, which I've never had before (so I know it's not just in my head).
Does it need bled more? Did i mess up some kind of automatic adjuster? Does part of the clutch mechanism need replacing? I haven't noticed any slipping once it's in gear (if I push the pedal to the floor going slow in 4th or 5th gear it doesn't slip) so I'm hoping that means that the clutch itself is okay. Thank you.
submitted by sadphillipG119 to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 22:08 bran_donger Brake Talk with Donger

It’s been a long time coming and I finally have some free time to tackle some more miscellaneous things on my to-do list, so gather round everyone, we’re gonna have a little discussion today that I can link people to the next time this subject invariably comes up again.
This guide is not RSX specific besides a few references to specific parts and can be applied as a general overview of how brakes work. This subject just bothers me particularly so because of how rampant the obsession with BBKs are in the DC5 “scene.” The TL-S Brembo “upgrade” is by far and away the worst offender, and I’m shocked that the need to butcher the knuckle, rotor, caliper bracket, and the caliper itself just to make it fit isn’t enough of a red flag for people.
Whether you’re looking to improve daily stopping performance or chase lap times, hopefully this little guide can give you a better idea of what you should be pursuing.
TL;DR at the end.

So you want to stop harder, huh?

Contrary to popular belief, larger calipers and larger rotors (i.e. big brake kits) do not increase stopping power and thus do not decrease stopping distance. We’re going to be breaking things down (zing) to some very basic levels here, so bear with me.
In physics, all the brakes on a car do is use friction to turn kinetic energy (momentum) into heat. Stopping harder is merely a factor of how quickly it does exactly that. If you’re keen on fuel economy, this is also why braking at all is, by definition, waste (so stop tailgating). It’s also why locking up the tires is terrible for stopping distance and why we have ABS.
If your tires lock up, the car’s braking system is already stopping the car as hard it can—too hard, in fact. It means the friction coefficient between the brake pad and rotor is greater than that of the tire and the road. ABS pumps the brakes rapidly for you so that the rotor and tire can continue to rotate, turning kinetic energy into heat. Otherwise, when the tires are locked, the only thing trying to stop you is your tires, acting as pencil erasers against the ground. It also means your tires are useless to turn the car as they’re just dragging along the road.
If you feel like learning more, Engineering Explained has a great video on why ABS is an absolute good, and why you should shame anyone that deletes ABS thinking it “feels better.” Threshold braking is practically impossible in the real world. ABS means that you’ve exceeded your maximum stopping force available, and is a tool to help keep you as close to it as possible.
The conclusion here is that, surprise! The stock brakes on your car are already stronger than they need to be. The original calipers and rotors will easily lock up the tires if you slam on the brakes; they literally cannot stop you any harder. If you want to increase stopping power, the operative variable here is firstly tires. Sticker rubber provides greater grip against the ground so that the tire friction is not overwhelmed by the braking force applied by the car.
For anyone not chasing lap times, feel free to skip to the end. The chief takeaway is that the OEM brakes are more than adequate already.

So what pads should I get?

If your tire selection is limited by weather or use case, there are some “OEM+” pads that offer better initial bite and feel. With ABS, you may still see an improvement in stopping distance, but remember that the limiting factor with brakes is almost always tires.
  • For regular street use, any parts-store pad will work fine. Look for low noise, low dust. Akebono is the OE-supplier for Honda, and anything from Powerstop, Brembo, or Centric will do you just fine.
  • For an OEM+ pad with a little more bite and heat resistance, Hawk HPS is my go-to because it's so readily available, but EBC Redstuff is a solid option as well. Both produce relatively low dust and are quiet, for the most part.
  • If you're choosing an aggressive pad for track use, consider that the most aggressive pads like Hawk DTC-60 or EBC RP need to be brought up to an ideal operating temperature for maximum effectiveness. These pads have a very high metallic composition and they are high wear against rotors, very noisy, and very dusty. They are not designed for street use where brake use is comparatively sparse. Street driving does not generate the temperatures needed for these pads to work properly and as a result can be dangerous.
  • If you're looking to do autocross or a couple of amateur track days, consider pads similar to Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellowstuff. They will still produce quite a lot of noise and dust, but provide adequate bite when cold to stop the car safely and are far more heat resistant than standard street pads. I personally run HP+ as a track pad but only swap them in for track days. They're not super fun on the street.

So you’re saying bigger calipers and rotors are useless? Then why do high end sports cars and race cars have giant brakes?

The primary benefit of a larger caliper with more pistons is to improve brake modulation. The stock caliper on the RSX is a single, large piston. By replacing it with a caliper with four smaller pistons, two on each side, the same amount of hydraulic pressure can be applied more evenly on a larger surface area across both pads. This allows for greater control of applied braking force.
A primary benefit of a larger rotor is heat capacity. A larger rotor is made up of more metal and thus can not only contain more heat, but also dissipate more heat through increased surface area. Excess heat of course, leads to brake fade—undesirable in any context. Rotor size will increase as vehicle weight increases, as there is more kinetic energy in a heavier car than a lighter car traveling at the same speed.
A larger caliper and larger rotor usually also mean a larger pad size, increasing the amount of braking surface area and therefore friction that the pads can apply to stop the car.

So you lied! Bigger brakes do help you stop harder!

No. Those same high performance cars are still governed by the same laws of physics that your piece of shit Honda Acura is. Now you know the benefits of having a larger caliper and rotor, and know that those cars are still limited by the rubber they roll on.
The larger and caliper also both add to unsprung and rotational weight, both of which affect vehicle dynamics much more than standard sprung weight. Things like acceleration, steering response, lateral grip, handling, and even stopping distance are all affected by unsprung weight.

So if there are other benefits to a larger caliper and rotor, why can’t I put them on my car anyway?

Because your braking performance will suffer. All cars have what’s called a brake proportioning valve after the brake master cylinder. Pretty self-explanatory name. You apply braking force via the pedal and the master cylinder, and the proportioning valve distributes hydraulic pressure to each corner of the car. The problem with big brake mods like this is a little bastard called brake bias.
The proportioning valve in your car is set to a specific ratio, based on a specific vehicle weight, a specific weight distribution, a specific friction coefficient in the front, and a specific friction coefficient in the rear. It is designed to lock up all four tires at the same time. With ABS, it means each corner of the car is stopping as hard as physically possible. Unfortunately, ABS is not smart enough to know which tire is locking up, and always engages per axle if even one tire begins to slip. What happens if you change one of those specific variables?
Yes, your larger calipers and rotors in the front can now apply more friction force than stock. One of two things can happen: 1.) the stock master cylinder and prop valve apply less pressure because of the increase in caliper size and the number of pistons—the rear brakes lock up first, which engages ABS, or 2.) the front brakes do have increased braking force and lock up first, which engages ABS. In either of these scenarios, ABS is working but only for one axle rather than two. You are no longer braking at the threshold of grip, and ABS engaging at one axle means the other cannot apply maximum braking force.
Brake bias is far more sensitive than you might think as well. Even something is little as having a different rotor type (high carbon vs. standard) from front to rear can affect brake bias significantly.
You could address all of these issues with an adjustable proportioning valve, and the larger calipers would work. It's been done before by at least a couple people I've met, but tuning brake bias is something that takes extensive testing and expertise that, quite frankly, you probably don’t have—I certainly don’t. Brake bias is something that takes professional teams and drivers entire test days to dial in. And the end result would be something you already had: a car that brakes as hard as it can. Remember that increasing caliper and rotor size does not change the fact that you’re limited by your tires.

So how can I get the benefits of calipers and rotors without having to mess with brake bias?

Easy. You get a caliper that uses the OEM pad and rotor diameter, and you get a thicker rotor.
A caliper like the OEM DC5 Type R Brembo, Spoon Monoblock, or ENDLESS Mini-6 all use the OEM rotor diameter and OEM Type S pad, meaning nothing is changed regarding friction force. You get all the benefits of a larger caliper with more pistons with none of the drawbacks of affecting brake bias. A lighter caliper will also help reduce unsprung weight.
A thicker brake rotor is ostensibly better than one that’s simply a larger diameter as the main source of cooling for a rotor is venting. Unfortunately there are not many companies out there that I know of making thicker OE-diameter rotors for DC5. They’re out there for S2000 (which uses the same diameter as RSX), but requires that the caliper be spaced out slightly further. Project Mu and AP Racing come to mind.
The Project Mu BBK is actually quite clever. It's a much larger rotor, but because it's a two-piece construction, they can increase the rotor diameter using the rotor hat but keep the pad surface area the same. Project Mu claims that you get all the benefits of a larger brake disc without affecting bias.
There is the 03-08 TSX rotor, which is slightly thicker at 300x28mm vs 300x25mm, but I have never confirmed if the rotor hat offset and bore is the same or fits an RSX.
To be frank though, the OEM rotor thickness is more than adequate for the weight of the car. A high quality blank rotor will easily handle several autocross or track days. Centric makes a cryo-treated high-carbon rotor, which is more durable and less prone to warping at high temperatures.
A slight tangent here regarding rotor selection for performance applications:
  • Do not ever buy drilled rotors. At the high temperatures typical of performance driving, each hole is just a stress point that is far more likely to develop cracks. You’re paying extra money for a worse rotor. The holes also do not ventilate much heat, and you’re effectively reducing the heat capacity of the rotor by removing material. Modern pad compounds do not outgas as much as they used to, and the need to ventilate these gasses is by and large no longer a concern.
  • Slotted rotors were also originally developed to shed gasses created by the pads, as these gasses could build pressure and prevent the pad from making full contact with the rotor. Again, this is very rarely an issue with modern pad compounds and not very relevant anymore. Slotted rotors can help with pad deglazing in the event that you overheat the pad while on track. The slots essentially help scrape any glazed material off the pad so that there is always fresh material available, but the difference in most amateur use cases is marginal.
  • Two-piece rotors can be excellent long-term investments for performance drivers if you decide it’s within your budget (both the Project Mu and AP Racing rotors I mentioned above are two-piece designs). The rotor hat allows for slightly more cooling while being made of lightweight aluminum. They are less prone to warping because the brake disc can heat more evenly, and you can replace just the brake disc and retain the rotor hat, rather than having to replace the whole thing.

That all sounds too expensive. Are there any other things I can do to improve my braking?

Yes, but the following mods do not increase stopping power.
The most critical thing that seems to be overlooked is brake fluid. A good high performance brake fluid is worth its weight in gold on track. Fluid can improve brake feel far more than stainless steel brake lines, and are crucial for avoiding brake fade after long sessions.
When brake fluid overheats, it boils, releasing air into the brake lines. Like any hydraulic system, the brakes rely on there being only fluid in the lines, which doesn’t compress. Air on the other hand, does compress, which is what leads to brakes feeling spongy or going straight into the floor—the pedal is compressing air rather than applying hydraulic force. So, get your hands on some good brake fluid with a higher boiling point.
  • Motul RBF660 is easy to recommend because it’s affordable and rather easy to find. It’s DOT4, meaning it’s compatible with any DOT3/DOT4 fluid you find at your local store if you’re ever in a pinch.
  • If you feel like upgrading to some big-boy fluid, try Project Mu 335 or ENDLESS RF650. The Endless stuff is better, but also more expensive unless you’re buying direct from Japan. It’s the OE-supplied brake fluid for many Porsche, McLaren, and Mercedes AMG cars, and is used by several Porsche CUP, SuperGT, WRC, and even Formula1 teams, if that means anything to you. ATE Super 5.1 is also supposed to be great, but I haven’t tried it.
Unfortunately, those fluids are DOT5.1, which means they are not compatible with DOT3 or DOT4 fluid. DOT5.1 is also more likely than DOT3 or DOT4 to absorb water, which all brake fluid does naturally. Solution of water decreases the boiling temperature of the brake fluid (you'll see this on packaging as the "wet" boiling temperature), so for maximum efficacy, you would have to flush the fluid at least once or twice a year, depending on how often you see the track.
Stainless steel brake lines (sometimes called braided lines) can help improve pedal feel. The OEM brake lines at each hub are made of flexible rubber to allow for the wheel to articulate and not rip the brake line open. Rubber however, expands. This means that some hydraulic pressure is lost to the expanding rubber rather than going straight to the calipers. Stainless lines are more rigid and prevent that slight loss of hydraulic pressure, improving pedal feel. They are however, much more expensive than rubber lines, and do not always last as long.
Plenty of companies out there sell stainless lines, but they're more or less all the same. I have Project Mu lines, but there's no particular reason to go with one brand over the other. Goodrich seems to usually be the cheapest and most accessible option for most people.
Lastly, brake ducts are the most effective way to prevent brake fade and overheating, significantly more so than rotor choice. The DC5 Type R had small OEM brake ducts from the factory that take the place of optional fog lights. These kits are getting more and more rare now, and it may be more cost-effective to simply make your own out of zip-ties, large hose clamps, and dryer ducting. It’s how professional race teams do it, believe it or not.


Big brake kits are not just dumb, but they'll making your brakes worse if you don’t understand how they work. Get tires then pads if you want to stop harder. Calipers can help with modulation, and rotors help with heat, but neither help you brake harder. Fluid is critical for preventing brake fade, lines help with pedal feel, and ducts are still the best way to keep your brakes cool.
There's always people out there smarter than me, so if there are any corrections or additions to be made, please let me know.
Thank you for coming to my TED talk. You guys owe me like, four billable hours. For those who care, I’ll be updating the suspension post in a similar fashion as well, hopefully soon. Always happy to answer any questions.
submitted by bran_donger to Acura_RSX [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 21:50 Latter-Ad642 Replacing front bumper cover/valence. Looking for some help/advice

Replacing front bumper covevalence. Looking for some help/advice
I’m going to be replacing the front bumper covers on my 07 as they are cracked on the sides. The only video I found on YouTube shows 2 bolts that can be undone, which removes the bumper cover (both pieces at once) but there are other plastic rivets holding it on. The bumpers covers I bought are just bare covers, no rivets are included. Has anyone changed there front valence before? Did you buy a rivet kit? Should I connect the 2 pieces (upper and lower valence) then put it on as a whole? I’m worried about breaking the old plastic rivets when trying to replace. Any tips on your procedure would help. Thanks!
submitted by Latter-Ad642 to fordranger [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 21:24 wacka20 Brake pedal issues

So i started to have some brakeing issues abojt 2 weeks ago. Come to a stop, an the pedal would hold for a few seconds then travel down. This caused the vehicle to slowly move forward.
No problem, at 160k with oem stuff i figured its high time to replace the master cylinder and hydrobooster.
Ive done this and still have the same issues.
This is not my first rodeo in doing this, but it is the first time ive had the pedal hold for a few then continue to travel down.
Bench blead the master cylinder, blead the rotors per spec procedure, blead the hydroboost per spec procedure.
Am i missing something? I dont see a in line check valve (i could of missed it, by simply just not looking for it of course). Where an what should i look for?
submitted by wacka20 to powerstroke [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 20:11 ten10toes Is it possible for clutch master cylinder to get full of crap/become worn if break fluid has leaked out?

Trying to solve an issue regarding my clutch and I'm leaning towards a problem with the clutch master cylinder.
The biting point seems to change, going back to normal if I tap the pedal lightly a couple of times. Reason why I'm asking is because a month or so before I had this problem, i had a leak and the break fluid drained out and just wondering if the two things could be connected. The break and clutch fluid are from the same reservoir.
Edit: Didn't make it clear that the leak I originally had was from a break cable which was subsequently fixed
submitted by ten10toes to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 18:19 george-hanson11 How much would you pay for a 94 f-250?

About 230k - 240k miles, been sitting a few years.
White, manual transmission, standard cab, 5.8l engine, 2WD.
Owner thinks something is wrong with transmission but I have my suspicions it may be a clutch / master cylinder issue. Has a busted out passenger window.
submitted by george-hanson11 to Cartalk [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 16:53 Kamigod713 Bleeding brakes

Just replaced my brake lines with steel braided lines on my 2 wheel front and rear, tried bleeding the brake system and it won’t bleed at all. I’m pumping the brakes with the bleeder valve opened and closed and the new fluid I filled the brake master cylinder with won’t even go into the system. Like it’s not pumping fluid through the system from the master cylinder. I’m using a vacuum gun to bleed it and it’s just pulling air out the lines and no fluid. Am I missing a step or is my master cylinder bad? I did notice that my master cylinder reservoir is leaking at the bottom where the rubber grommets meet the master cylinder. Could that leak cause this?
submitted by Kamigod713 to 3rdGen4Runner [link] [comments]

2023.06.05 16:30 Devigiorno 83-87 Diesel Engines (2.2 and 2.3)

The Ford Ranger, first introduced in 1983, offered a range of engine options including a 4-cylinder 2.2L Mazda/Perkins diesel that produced 59 horsepower and 90 torque.
In 1985, the Ford Ranger underwent an engine change, swapping out the Mazda diesel engine for a Mitsubishi-built 2.3 L turbodiesel, which boasted 86 horsepower and 134 torque. However, the availability of diesel engines as an option ceased after 1987, marking the end of the diesels era for the Ford Ranger.
Here's some information about the 2.2 L diesel sourced from

Engine: 2.2L Perkins model 4.135 Diesel
Configuration: Inline 4 cylinder
Model Years: 1983 - 1984 Ford Ranger
Displacement: 134.8 CID, 2.2 liters
Compression Ratio: 22.0 : 1
Firing Order: 1 - 3 -4 - 2
Cylinder Bore: 3.50" (88.9 mm)
Cylinder Stroke: 3.50" (88.9 mm)
Aspiration: Naturally aspirated
Injection: Indirect injection (IDI)
Oil Capacity: 5.30 quarts w/ filter
Est. Engine Weight: ~ 530 lbs dry
Rated Horsepower: 59 hp @ 4,000 rpm
Rated Torque: 90 lb-ft @ 2,500 rpm
Fuel Economy: 41 mpg highway, 33 mpg combined
Max Payload: 1,620 lbs
GVWR: 4,460 - 4,500 lbs
Vin Code: P

Here's some information about the 2.3 L diesel sourced from

Engine: 2.3L Mitsubishi model 4D55 diesel
Configuration: Inline 4 cylinder
Model Years: 1985 - 1986 Ford Ranger
Displacement: 143 CID, 2.3 liters
Compression Ratio: 21.1 : 1
Cylinder Bore: 3.59" (91.1 mm)
Cylinder Stroke: 3.54" (90.0 mm)
Aspiration: Turbocharged, wastegated
Injection: Indirect injection (IDI)
Valvetrain: 2 valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
Oil Capacity: 7.0 quarts w/ filter
Rated Horsepower: 86 hp @ 4,200 rpm
Rated Torque: 134 lb-ft @ 2,000 rpm
Max Rated Engine Speed: 4,500 rpm
Vin Code: E
Not a ton of info for these is out there compared to their gasoline powered counterparts. There aren't a whole lot of these left, so if you have one consider yourself lucky for obtaining a piece of history!
submitted by Devigiorno to FordRangerEngines [link] [comments]