2013 ford f150 fuel pump replacement

I have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport and I got my engine replaced about 5 months ago under the engine recall. I just wanted to give everyone a heads-up on the additional repair that I had to do. Within 2 months, the complete exhaust, fuel pump, and catalytic converter were replaced. 2 months after that I had to replace the exhaust manifold. I think all of these are due to the engine burning oil causing the whole exhaust system to fail.
In hindsight, it would have been cheaper for me to trade in the car and a new one. The total of repairs so far would have been equal to a good downpayment on a new car.

Hi all my cbr650r 2019 isn’t starting. Battery started slowly going out to where it wouldn’t start the bike but I could roll start it, charged the battery and would start fine. Fuel was on reserve when I got home last Friday and it still started twice that afternoon, since then it won’t start, have topped up fuel, found the battery wasn’t holding charge so battery has been replaced, checked fuses and tried the starting sequence of holding throttle full open and cranking then normal starting sequence. When new battery went it it just started and I was holding throttle just open, when let off it stalled and hasn’t started since. Fuel pump is priming etc, hoping someone can help

Hi all. I had the fuel pump on my mk1 focus ghia auto 1.6 replaced a few weeks ago. Drove the car around locally for 50 miles or so with no problems.
Yesterday filled up the tank to full for the first time since pump replacement - I got 20 miles up the m6 before one of the pipes at the tank end just blew off, totally disconnected, leaving me stranded.
Got the car back to the garage who replaced the tank - they couldn’t understand why it had happened. They replaced the seals in the pipes and the cars running again, but are the pipes likely to blow off again? Should they be replaced? Are they single use only?
Not sure if I can trust this car on a long journey again!

i’ve posted this car formerly asking if i should buy it. (it’s not a 92, for some reason my brain took 91 as 92) the owner didn’t have any more time to work because of a sudden move. he sold it to me for $400 instead of the $1800 he asked. so im happy to mention i finally bought it after long consideration. i’ll have a different daily in the mean time. it is my first project car so i’m quite nervous but i’m very much willing to learn, practice, and get her on the road. im changing the thermostat, flushing fluids, putting in a new battery, tires and wheels, and the fuel pump assembly. and i’ll be clearing the tank. it was also mentioned i replace the water pump so that is also coming into the list. i’ve also ordered a new top. thank you everyone for their advice and suggestions.:)

I'm unable to get this code cleared on my 2013 ForTwo Smart. I've been made aware this is a common problem for this car. Here's what I've done so far ;

• Replaced gas gasket seal (Check Engine returned after approx. 30 miles)
• Replaced muffler (was loud / broken) and Secondary Air Injection Smog Pump (Check Engine returned after approx. 30 miles)
• Replaced Vacuum Solenoid Valve A0025401497 (Check Engine returned after approx. 60 miles)
• Replaced 50amp fuse by battery

Once the fuse was replaced, the pump could finally be heard running on cold start. It had not been running before (There was no "bus" or "jet" sound on cold start before fuse was replaced)
It did one cold start, drove 5 miles without coding, then at the second cold start, the Check Engine light returned with P2440.
Replaced W451 Combination Valve. After two cold start, P2440 is gone but P0410 is back. Sometimes there's a new clicking sound after the pump is done running, sometimes not.
If cleared, P0410 will return after two cold starts.
OBD2 scanner says Catalyst Mon is INC. Sometimes it says the Sec Air System is OK, sometimes it says it's INC.
What else is there to replace or try?
Thank you to anyone who takes the time to offer advice, and apologies if I forgot something or did something wrong!

MY 2003 mitsubishi outlander AWD died a few weeks ago going down the road. I was accelerating and it just stopped giving gas and eventually died in the middle of the highway. Before this, it would occasionally putter or stall when accelerating sometimes but only for a few seconds before correcting itself. I have been really good about keeping up with the maintenance and upkeep. I have had no real issues with it other than having to replace the water pump a few years ago. I know pretty much nothing about cars or what makes them run beyond common knowledge. Now, When I turn the key it turns over but doesn't catch. It sounds completely normal turning over, it just never actually starts. My dad thought the fuel pump might need to be replaced, so we did that, and no luck. the new fuel pump buzzes and sounds like it's working when the key is turned over but it still won't start. I don't see any leaks or puddles coming from anywhere under the car. After purchasing two different parts (the first pump I ordered was for a 2wd and was non-refundable) I cannot afford to have it towed to a mechanic and fixed professionally. My dad is able to make most simple repairs but does not have the time to diagnose what's actually going on. Does anyone have any idea or have any suggestions about what could possibly be going on and what I may need to do to fix? Any help or advice would be extremely appreciated.

MY 2003 mitsubishi outlander AWD died a few weeks ago going down the road. I was accelerating and it just stopped giving gas and eventually died in the middle of the highway. Before this, it would occasionally putter or stall when accelerating sometimes but only for a few seconds. I have been really good about keeping up with the maintenance and upkeep. I have had no real issues with it other than having to replace the water pump a few years ago. Now, When I turn the key it turns over but doesn't catch. It sounds completely normal turning over, it just never actually starts. My dad thought the fuel pump might need to be replaced, so we did that, and no luck. the new fuel pump buzzes and sounds like it's working but it still won't start. I don't see any leaks or puddles coming from anywhere under the car. After purchasing two different parts (the first pump I ordered was for a 2wd and was non-refundable) I cannot afford to have it towed to a mechanic and fixed professionally. My dad is able to make most simple repairs but does not have the time to diagnose what's actually going on. Does anyone have any idea or have any suggestions about what could possibly be going on and what I may need to do to fix? Any help or advice would be extremely appreciated.

So I'm still battling this surging idle shit. Here's what I've done so far; MAP, o2, dizzy/plugs/wires, TPS, IAC, cleaned throttle body & replaced gasket, fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump w/ sending unit, fuel pressure regulator, EGR w/ diaphragm. Today I just got a new vacuum harness both front and rear pieces, replaced them and set the TPS again. I got ut to where it idled at 500rpm and it seemed fine. After I shut the jeep off and turned it back on the idle went back down to 0rpm (as it was before). Also, when the jeep is in P or N it doesn't surge, but while it's in gear on either R or D it'll surge really bad and even start to buck. What in the absolute fuck? I hope someone has a solution. Do me a favor tho, keep the dumb ass comments to yourself, don't care for them nor need them. Thanks 😁

So I'm still battling this surging idle shit. Here's what I've done so far; MAP, o2, dizzy/plugs/wires, TPS, IAC, cleaned throttle body & replaced gasket, fuel injectors, fuel filter, fuel pump w/ sending unit, fuel pressure regulator, EGR w/ diaphragm. Today I just got a new vacuum harness both front and rear pieces, replaced them and set the TPS again. I got ut to where it idled at 500rpm and it seemed fine. After I shut the jeep off and turned it back on the idle went back down to 0rpm (as it was before). Also, when the jeep is in P or N it doesn't surge, but while it's in gear on either R or D it'll surge really bad and even start to buck. What in the absolute fuck? I hope someone has a solution. Do me a favor tho, keep the dumb ass comments to yourself, don't care for them nor need them. Thanks 😁

Hey guys, professional ASE certified master tech here. I've got a customer with an 06 Legacy GT, and the fuel gauge stays at a quarter tank if the fuel level is above a quarter, and then works normally once it drops to a quarter or lower of actual fuel level. I replaced the sub level sending unit after removing it and checking the resistance readings on the variable resistor. They were erratic and the sender was clearly bad. Gave it back to the customer, and it worked great for exactly one full tank of gas.
Now, it's back. I've removed and rechecked both level senders ( Subaru is weird, because it has a saddle tank, there is a sender on both sides of the tank, wired in series), and checked for the gauge sweep to make sure the IC works. It's a super simple circuit, power from BIU is sent through the sub-sender variable resistor over to the fuel pump level sender variable resistor and then right to ground. The resistances of the resistors are in spec when installed in the tank, and they respond appropriately when removed from the tank.
There is an aftermarket alarm wired into the BIU, so I know that my next step will be to inspect that. I guess I was just curious if anyone has experienced anything like this, and if so, what you found. I don't have an I/O chart that tells me what voltage to expect coming from the BIU to the sender, but I've got a feeling there are some wiring issues with the alarm.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

I'm unable to get this code cleared on my 2013 ForTwo Smart. I've been made aware this is a common problem for this car. Here's what I've done so far ;

• Replaced gas gasket seal (Check Engine returned after approx. 30 miles)
• Replaced muffler (was loud / broken) and Secondary Air Injection Smog Pump (Check Engine returned after approx. 30 miles)
• Replaced Vacuum Solenoid Valve A0025401497 (Check Engine returned after approx. 60 miles)
• Replaced 50amp fuse by battery

Once the fuse was replaced, the pump could finally be heard running on cold start. It had not been running before (There was no "bus" or "jet" sound on cold start before fuse was replaced)
It did one cold start, drove 5 miles without coding, then at the second cold start, the Check Engine light returned with P2440.
Replaced W451 Combination Valve. After two cold start, P2440 is gone but P0410 is back. Sometimes there's a new clicking sound after the pump is done running, sometimes not.
If cleared, P0410 will return after two cold starts.
OBD2 scanner says Catalyst Mon is INC. Sometimes it says the Sec Air System is OK, sometimes it says it's INC.
What else is there to replace or try?
Thank you to anyone who takes the time to offer advice, and apologies if I forgot something or did something wrong!

My car starts fine after it’s been sitting for hours but if I go in somewhere for a few minutes the car will crank but takes a couple minutes to start. I’ve replace the purge valve, the EVAP, and the fuel filter. Should I go for the fuel pump relay or the whole fuel pump? Is there a test I can do?

Hello, I am trying to find someone that might be interested in a 2010 chevy tahoe as a project truck, or that wants the solid 5.3 that's in it or the new transmission I just put in it about a year ago. I know I would have trouble selling it to a dealership and I don't feel right selling it to someone who doesn't know how to work on cars cause it would need some work. It has a salvaged title, that I bought it with, like an idiot. It ran amazing for the first couple years I had it, then I started having a fuel delivery issue and I have been chasing that ever since. It still starts and runs good, but it has gotten to the point that it takes a couple trys to get it to turn over. I've replaced the ruel pump and the module, I've taken it to the dealership and they said to replace those two things. That was after I had done all the work. I live in Utah and it ran perfectly all throughout the winter and only started acting up again once spring hit. I'm hoping someone in here might be nearby and want it, I just want to be able to pay it off and be done with it. Again I live in Utah, about 45 mins from salt lake. Please let me know if there is any interest out there, or any good suggestions, I just need some help! I can take pictures if there is interest. Thanks everyone!

My 2005 tundra will start but does not stay running. It felt like a fuel issue to me so I made sure to replace the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump itself. But I'm still having the same issue. Don't think lines are clogged because it starts up every time I turn the key but then stops running. Air box is a completely dry and has a new filter in it. All of the ignition coils been replaced within the year. Spark plugs are only about 3 years old so I don't think its an electrical issue. Does anybody have any ideas of what I could be dealing with?
EDIT: I figured I should probably note that the truck died on me under hard acceleration and since then I've had this issue.

looking for GM tech advice please, or Cruze modifying enthusiasts I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze eco 6 speed. I recently inherited it, and while it was in a front end accident, I don’t think this is playing into my issue. The fenders hood and front bumper were poorly replaced, got the frame pulled a bit, replaced the bent condenser, charge air cooler, and radiator, blah blah blah front end work from hitting an animal, like I said not too important to the situation
Car keeps throwing P069E -fuel pump control module requests MIl illumination P059F -air grille shutter “A” performance/stuck off I didn’t put the active grille shutters in, but the motor is still there. I can plug it in, and I’m pretty sure it takes a few ignition cycles to throw a code for that one anyway so I think if I drive a long enough trip or two and don’t shut it off again I can get enough emissions monitors to pass before throwing that code I’ve gotta pass emissions soon here and am more worried about the P069E. I think I need a chassis control module, and am looking for the cheapest solution Do I need to purchase a new module for this and have it programmed to the vehicle? Or can I take a module from another eco of the same year and have it work without programming. I read in a forum somewhere about people swapping them with the non eco package to just “get rid” those codes and the grille shutters when they’re trying to get their economy car to be a “race car” could I do that? How particular would I have to be if it is an option to just swap a used module in? Thanks in advance

I have been chasing a weird issue with my 2001 E46 M3 for like 6 months now which feels like it could be fuel.
The main symptom is intermittent hard starting were randomly it would decide to struggle to start with zero pattern at all. I've also had the car instantly stall on me when starting.
I have zero codes, and the only thing I have to go by is a weird looking OBD log where fuel trims creep into the negatives and the fuel system status goes to "8", aka "Open loop due to system failure".
It's had plugs, coils, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel regulator vacuum hoses, crankshaft sensor, and pre-cat O2 sensors. It has also had the VANOS rebuilt and the engine timing corrected.
I've just thrown a refurbished set of injectors in and it seems to start better with improved throttle response, but the OBD logs look the same.
Here is an example: https://datazap.mejamesfoley/e46-m3-new-injectors?log=0&data=1-2-6-8
I have loads of these logs throughout the process of replacing parts and they all look the same.
At this point I have no idea if seeing a fuel status of 8 is normal? I'm guessing it's not, but I honestly have no idea where to go from here.
Is there something fuel related I've missed? Is there another sensor I need to check that is linked to the fuel system being in open / closed loop?
The fuel trim always creeps into the negatives after resetting the adaptations, which suggests its rich for some reason?
The only vague pattern I can see is that every time the fuel system status goes to 8, either one or both of the pre-cat O2 sensors read 0v.
If anyone has even the slightest idea of what might be up please let me know, it would be super appreciated. Happy to provide any reading or logs anyone needs.

Hi everyone!
I have a 1985 Ford LTD Crown Vic with a 351W. I’ve spent the last 3 months rebuilding the engine completely after the rear main seal went.
It has NOT run yet but there is a very strong gasoline scent in the engine bay. I noticed it after installing the new fuel pump and new fuel lines.
No gasoline has travelled to the front of the engine bay. There is gas in the tank but no gas in the carb, lines or pump.
I’m really not sure what’s going on and it’s making me really nervous to start it. The smell is strongest when standing over the drivers side but still evident over the pass side too.
Thanks!

TL;DR is in bold My daughter's 1987 Ford E150 (4.9l straight six) has a crank no start condition. Not sure how many miles, but this thing is old. It all started when her battery had a parasitic drain and she kept needing a jump start. I noticed that her fuel pump was making crazy noises and was running for 30-60 minutes AFTER turning the vehicle completely off. She has two fuel pumps, one in the tank near the back bumper and one on the van's frame on drivers side. The one on the frame was the culprit making noise. So I tracked the issue to what I believed was a bad relay and after just bumping into it, the issue stopped. So at this point I think the relay was stuck in the on position and bumping it must have unstuck it. So replaced the relay. Immediately after that, whenever you turn the key to the on position, the relay would click on-off-on-off super fast, making a buzzing noise from the relay. I read this could be caused by a bad ground so I made my own ground and hooked it to the relay. Sure enough, it seemed like the problem was solved whenever the new ground was connected to the relay. Unfortunately at some point during this process, the van decided it WONT START AT ALL anymore.
The relay is working properly and I can hear the frame fuel pump turning on and off when the key is on and off, and the fuel lines near the engine shake a little when it's on, so it seems like it's working properly. But the van still wont start. The van wont even try to start now, it cranks just fine, but there is little to no indication of combustion happening. So I sprayed starter fluid in the intake a few times and still nothing. Not even a little bit. It just cranks over and over with no rumbling/ combustion sounds. I felt like this means it is not getting spark, otherwise if it was just short on fuel the starter fluid would have caused it to at least make some rumbling and combustion sounds. Am I right? So I took out the three spark plugs furthest from the front bumper and they are extremely black and had a lot of carbon sooty stuff on them. They seemed to be gapped correctly. I tested them against the block and they still sparked!!! So now I am stumped. I replaced those three plugs with new ones and plan to replace the others, but now I have no idea if this is spark or fuel related. Halp!

Hello Mechanics of reddit!
Edit for vehicle line:
Truck: 2014 F150 XLT, 90k miles, very good service record, breaks done and tires replaced recently (by the same place in question), V8 Automatic.
I recently brought my 2014 F150 XLT in on a Saturday to get oil changed and tires rotated (I do not currently have any space to perform the work myself, and I have been enjoying this dealership.) It's at about 90k miles, and gets pretty well taken care of however, the dealership suggest flushing the fluids as they looked quite bad - I said 'fair' and went with it.
The dealership called back later asking if I knew where the key to my spare was, because they had 'damaged one of the wheels' and did not have a replacement. The replacement was already on order and was supposed to come on Monday.
I call back Monday, and the replacement has not come in - the new guy I am talking to today informs me that the technician did not put the wheel back on correctly and it fell off while they were test driving it!!
I processed this for the next day, and all my coworkers are telling me there is no way the truck isn't seriously damaged after something like that. I called back to get another follow up and ask more detailed questions - This time I learned it was the Right Rear that fell off while driving.
The guy informed me that there was no damage, only to the aluminum wheel, but I would like all of your opinions:
Do you think this truck has sustained considerable/severe/total damage? I am not extremely vehicle fluent so I wouldnt really know how to inspect the vehicle for damages, but I will be taking it to another shop for a second opinion on what might be going on. I am also worried that this 'wheel' hasn't come in yet, because it is really just waiting on the insurance agent to come out. I can't fathom an extremely popular FORD dealership to not have a replacement for an F150.
Let me know your thoughts, thanks all!
Edit: I confirmed with the guy on the phone, that the wheel fell OFF of the vehicle while driving.